6 chain VS 4 chain Attex models

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Thread: 6 chain VS 4 chain Attex models

  1. #1
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    6 chain VS 4 chain Attex models

    OK everyone, lets compare and contrast all the good and bad points of the 4 chain Attexes and the 6 chain Attexes. I have a ST/295 that I am restoring, along with a bunch of other 6x6's, and its the 4 chain model. I thought that it might be a good canidate for a high horsepower motor because there are only 4 chains and the power goes directly from the transmission to the axles. Lets hear some thoughts.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  2. #2
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    You must have a later model ST295 there. I've never seen that particular machine with the 4-chain set. They say the rear chains will wear out quicker on that system because of the full reverse bend, but I've never noticed any difference. The only drawback I know of with your chain set is the lack of clearance for a low center-of-gravity engine mounting.

    Good Luck with it- how high horsepower are we talking, for curiosity's sake?
    Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

    (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

  3. #3
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    Don, I checked and it said 1975 stamped on the frame rail. I forgot that the engine sits higher up in it.....thats right, it needs to because it would hit the chains if it was any lower. I thought about doing 670 Rotax LC. I know where one is and I could get it cheap. This is just a crazy idea, but it might work, who knows. Thats a lot of plumbing to worry about. I might just do a 400 JLO or Briggs Vanguard.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  4. #4
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    It's funny that you brought this question up, because I was staring at my Attex last night wondering how I was going to lower the motor for lower center of gravity. My Attex is a 4 chain car & so was the Attex I jumped the 4 cars with. I figured I can move the engine back 3" & down 2" & buy a longer belt & it will still clear the chains. I just have to fabricate a new engine mount. I like the 4 chain set-up. There's 2 less chains & 4 less sprockets in the car. (LESS WEIGHT = MORE SPEED) If you jack up an Attex & you jack up a Max you will notice that it takes less energy to spin the tire on the Attex partly because your not turning thru a jackshaft. Which I never liked much on my Max. I always thought the Attex dominated racing because of their much simplified drive train. Everytime you add something to a drive train it creates drag & uses more HP which ='s LESS SPEED. What's critical in the 4 chain set-up is that everything is in perfect alignment, especially the idler. I fabricated my own billet aluminum idler w/ better bearings to do just that. Use better bearings on everything you do, cause bad bearings cause induced drag. Which consumes HP = LESS SPEED. Some day I'll build a 4 chain springer Max & get rid of the jackshaft. Of course, if your not looking for more speed perfect alignment is still everything.
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  5. #5
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    So Whipper, you would say that this would be a good machine to go the "performance" route with and throw some sort of big motor in there? That idea sure seems to make a lot of sense......the more resistance, the less HP, and the less speed there will be.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  6. #6
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    JPswift1, I think you may have a "cross" machine that's had the frame switched at some time in it's life. As far as I know, Attex didn't produce an ST295 after 1972, and they all had six chains. If you decide to go the route of a 400 JLO, let me know and I'll get you the mounts out of an ST400 and it'll be a simple bolt-in operation. I think the big liquid-cooled sounds like a more interesting project, though.

    Don
    Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

    (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

  7. #7
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    Don, I think you or hydromike might have explained how some frames had years printed on them that went in different models and were switched up everywhich way....I get forgetful sometimes. I was going to get a 400 JLO from hydromike and swap it in there. If you have a 400 JLO mount that would be great. You could have my 295 mount since I will have no use for it. That 670 Rotax that I had my eye seems to be too much hastle to try and get.....its one of those situation where someone says, "I'm going to fix it up some day and it will be worth a lot of money then." Plus, I have my 1969 ST/300 racer, and I think that's all I need for now. I would be pleased with a 400 JLO powered Attex and I have a brand new set of 21" Rawhides I could put on there too. Thanks Don!
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  8. #8
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    I've never compared the total weight of chain between the 4-chain and 6 chain machines, but I doubt the difference is greater than 5 pounds or so, probably less. (O.K., O.K., so 5 pounds is 5 pounds). The total length of the 4 chain setup can't be that much less than the 6 chain setup, either. The chains have to come up to the T-20 all the way from the back, back down around the idler and forward again to the center axle. The six chain setup doesn't really use a true "jackshaft" per se; it drives the center axle, which in turn drives the front and rear. I think the 4-chain setup probably delivers power more efficiently to the back tires (where it needs to be on launch) but I would argue that you don't really loose a whole heck of a lot of power. There's probably a little less resistance on the 4-chain setup since the idle sprocket on the "4" is smaller than the drive sprocket on the "6". The 4-chain is a breeze to adjust, but the trade-off is that you HAVE to keep it adjusted or else the chains drag on the bottom of the tub. On the 4-chain setup, there's the nylon pad that keeps it up off the tub, even if it goes WAY out of adjustment. On the "4" setup, the chain below the drive clutch can end up slapping the belt a little bit if it gets too sloppy, but I've never had too much of an issue with it. I like how the engine sits low in the "4" setup, but you do have to keep an eye on keeping two extra chains in good shape.

    I've grenaded sprocket tubes on both type of setups, so I can't debate the strength of either. The 503 sent a sprocket tube into hyperspace on the "4" setup, and the D/stock made two sprocket tubes look juuuust-silly on the "6" setup.

    ~m

  9. #9
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    i know its slightly off the topic but a fue years back i put a L/C 500 polaris(fugi) twin in a max2 and had nothing but problems with the damn jackshafts what a nightmear breaking adjuster plates, bending the center shafts. the other thing was getting the clutching right i used the origional clutch on the engine and an origional max 2stroke t20 clutch. man that thing took off like a rocket but had the top speed of 45-50 because of the missmatched clutching also to make the jack shaft thing worse the clutch slamed into engadgement at 3200rpm i havent given up on a big 2 stroke max2 just yet ive got my hands on a 600 tripple L/C polaris (fugi) and plan on matching the clutching and either eliminating the jackshafts or makeing them stronger this will be my winter project this year when i start ill post some photos

  10. #10
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    There is one drawback to the 4 chain Attex, break the rear chain and your dead in the water. Or loose control of the car. If you loose the front or rear of the 6 chain, you can take it off and gimp back to the trailer on 5 wheels. eveyone gets to do that sooner or later.

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