You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
It's amazing how little throttle you need if you're "patient" and just make slow turns, allowing the low-gearing of the hydraulics to do the work. I try to save the higher RPM for when I need the power to climb as opposed to just maneuvering quickly. Seems like less wear and tear anyway. Adding an EGT guage might be a good idea so as not to unknowingly overburden the engine at lower rpm's even though it has the power to do the job. I could see where at times higher RPM's might be "healthier." Seems like you can more or less "listen" to the engine, but an EGT guage would be nice, especially on a tuned-up diesel. Mine is stock. Although, I have a dash-mounted throttle on the diesel, I almost wish now that I had the manual lever on the sticks like my gasser. I don't know if I could actually save fuel or not, but you could definitely manage the RPM's better. You might be a little more prone to stalling if you let off the manual throttle I suppose...I don't know. In regards to the electric throttle- the engine-mounted "actuator" or "servo" if that's the right term just extends (telescopes) as it receives input from the dash-mounted toggle. It then in turn holds the engine throttle linkage open that "set-amount." The downside I see is that the electric throttle holds itself in a fixed position, but the engine may receive a heavy load suddenly, forcing the throttle linkage closed (or trying to).......it is a potential break point. Not a major deal....if the actuator rod (that connects to throttle linkage) breaks, you'll just have to find another way to hold the throttle open (wire, zip-ties, or in my case...get lucky and have enough rod left that the broken piece can be unthreaded from the female-body of the linkage, and the remaining (majority) of the rod can be re-threaded, letting the servo operate as normal- although with "slightly" less throw and without the absolute top RPM). Matt lined me out over the phone for this exact thing. It was actually simpler than I had expected once I just "looked" at it. I believe the diesels now come with a more severe-duty cooling system now, but another benefit to having a heater on your rig is that you can leave it running to sponge-off additional heat if you're working the rig hard. I know that's probably obvious. I've wished for a 3rd hand when working the sticks and the winch at the same time. While you can use the remote control in one hand and still operate both sticks (as opposed to using your knee for one stick if you have to use winch's dash switch), having a winch toggle on the sticks (I think) might be helpful....random thoughts
Just wanted to share....... I look forward to hearing about and seeing your rig-
Is getting both the electronic dash mounted throttle and a stick mounted throttle an option? Seems like that would be the best of both worlds, you could set the dash throttle for a set engine speed and just work the sticks, kind of like zero radius turn lawn mowers, and then have the convenience of the stick throttle when you come upon a situation that requires more RPM. Is that an available set up from the factory?
I think it would actually be a good idea to have both installed so you would have a reliable back-up throttle should your servo ever have problems. It would be as easy as disconnecting the servo rod and connecting the manual throttle linkage at the butterfly. The manual cable could be tied out of the way until needed. The electric can be set at virtually any fixed throttle setting from idle to WOT as they are set up now, so you do have a full-range of RPM. It seems like 2400 (sometimes less) seems like a good spot in the torque curve. Higher rpm is only needed for brute pulling or climbing. I can't imagine what a tuned-up rig would feel like. The electric throttle is nice for keeping you there or at any rpm for that matter, and it does save on tired fingers.
Over the last few weeks I have had a few people ask about a control lever mounted throttle switch. Here at the factory we are working on this. I have a mount set up for our snow plow so you can run the blade up and down while driving to make snow plowing much faster. The throttle switch can be done much the same way.
Happy New Year to you and all your Ox family of workers, hope your year continues with lots of Mudd-Ox production and innovation. In the thread above you mention the control lever mounted throttle control, does this mean that on a turbo diesel model it will be possible to have both the dash mounted electronic throttle control and the control lever mounted throttle control so that a set RPM can be locked in by the dash control and then if needed the control lever mounted control can be used for more RPM and when released the engine speed would return to the level set by the dash control? Thanks.
My guess is you can't have both an electrical and manual at the same time. The electric throttle has an electronic servo that moves a solid rod attached to the Kubota throttle linkage with a Hime joint. I suspect Matt is alluding to a mount that will allow the electric throttle switch to be mounted on the sticks.
It would be nice to see the electric throttle set up so that it was easier to adjust the rpms "slowly". As it sits now, you already have to "play around" with the dash-mounted toggle switch to get the rpms just right....either by tapping it (as fast as you can) up or down so that you only get a small RPM change, or by giving it a second or third try when you accidentally lower the RPM too much or too little. That part is not a big deal, but it seems to "shock-load" the drive train when you suddenly increase the RPM's when you have the sticks forward and are already moving forward. It makes you "suddenly" lurch forward. Of course, it's worse when you have the sticks farther forward and suddenly increase the RPMs. You can eliminate this by pulling the sticks back slowing the machine, then increasing the RPM. I think it's amplified because of the direct drive whereas a clutch might act like a buffer. Just another reason I prefer the manual throttle.
wish list....maybe a much slower acting servo (I know nothing about these). That and a control-mounted winch toggle. I could see both of those things being useful. Wouldn't suprise me if they're already in the works
It is easy to do a control mounted winch as there is a port for the winch remote under the dash on the side of the winch solenoid box. There are handle bar remote units available that work perfect for this application
Reply With Quote
