Whipper's 1.25" Attex axle conversion article is up

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Thread: Whipper's 1.25" Attex axle conversion article is up

  1. #1

    Whipper's 1.25" Attex axle conversion article is up

    That's so simple, even I get it!

    Very cool Whipper.
    Banned

  2. #2
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    Whipper's 1.25" Attex axle conversion article is up

    Here's the link to Whipper's article: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...1-4-axles.html

    Another great article by a 6x6 World member. Thanks for taking the time to write that and upload the pictures! I'm starting this thread to discuss/comment on the article.

  3. #3
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    Well I believe Attex made some great machines, but their Achille's heel is their 1" axles. It isnt that much of a weakness, but there is room to improve here, and I'm really happy that Whipper did this. Now all of us Attex guys can run 1 1/4" axles (same as Maxes) and larger bearings (Max 62mm bearings to be exact). I think with these bearings, 1 1/4 inch solid splined axles, some 22" Goodyear Rawhide III's, and a big 4 stroke V twin would make a really bullet proof machine. Heck, you could even build a very serious two stroke like a 670 Rotax and make one wild racer.......hmmm maybe that could that be my next project!
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  4. #4
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    Whipper, this is a fantastic writeup, and a very generous offer to loan out the jigs to all of the DIY'ers. The only question I would have about the entire swap is the Timken/Fafnir number (or whatever you've used) for the bearings and the flanges. I've tried over and over again to go to suppliers for the early Max/ Rim bearings and they look at me like I'm from outer space when I give them the number on the bearing. I SHOW them the bearing with the number, and they say they simply don't offer it any longer. The original RIM/Max bearing was a triple sealed unit. What'er the details for the beefy outers you're using now? (The same went for the flanges, too. Just like I was an alien speaking Urdu, or something....)

    Again, great writeup. I sense 1-1/4-inchers in my future.
    ~m
    Last edited by hydromike; 01-07-2008 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Thanks to our moderator/optimizer for putting this in the right place... Sorry about that rogue placement...

  5. #5
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    What's keeping you from going all the way to the bigger 1 1/4 bearings on the Attex ?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by liflod View Post
    What's keeping you from going all the way to the bigger 1 1/4 bearings on the Attex ?
    I think the side plates on the Attex frame are too small to accommodate the larger Max bearing flange. The bolt "circle" RIM/Old Max flange is a quite a bit smaller. I believe that's why Whipper put the taller side plates on the Spider, since he used the larger Max bearings.

    ~m

  7. #7
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    I planned on updating my old Max IV to the larger bearings. The problem was the old bolt pattern was too close to the new bolt pattern and I would have to fab some spacers like the Attex to mount the bigger bearings. I guess the Attex frame rails are smaller than the Max.

    If I were to actually do the job, I would probably make 3/8 or 1/2 inch steel spacers that would bolt to the frame via countersunk screws and then drill and tap the spacer to accommodate the bigger bearings hole pattern.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hydromike View Post
    Whipper, this is a fantastic writeup, and a very generous offer to loan out the jigs to all of the DIY'ers. The only question I would have about the entire swap is the Timken/Fafnir number (or whatever you've used) for the bearings and the flanges. I've tried over and over again to go to suppliers for the early Max/ Rim bearings and they look at me like I'm from outer space when I give them the number on the bearing. I SHOW them the bearing with the number, and they say they simply don't offer it any longer. The original RIM/Max bearing was a triple sealed unit. What'er the details for the beefy outers you're using now? (The same went for the flanges, too. Just like I was an alien speaking Urdu, or something....)

    Again, great writeup. I sense 1-1/4-inchers in my future.
    ~m
    I'm sorry, thats propriatory information. I'f I told you I'd have to kill you.

    Whipper

  9. #9
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    OK Mike, here they are.
    The 62mm bearings I'm using on the Attex is a Fafnir# GRA103RRB2 w/collar. It is a double sealed bearing. The flanges for that bearing are G62MSA/MSB, one has a grease zert. They still do make a Tri-seal bearing. The P/N for that one is G1103KPPB4 with an extended inner race (62mm). For a 72mm, #G1104KPPB2.
    This Tri-seal bearing is also 3X the money. In my opinion I don't think they"re that much better than the double sealed ones.( not at 3 X the money)
    I've talked to a lot of bearing houses searching for a better bearing. There are none. These bearings were desiged for industrial use, to run motors, drive shafts. Conveyer belts use millions of them. They were not designed for autos or to be submerged under water. You won't see any of these cheap things on a submarine. The seals are to keep the grease in and keep the dirt and moisture out. By moisture they mean occasional washing, rain, and high humidity, not totally submerged.
    But you can prolong their life by religiously greasing them. I think the best thing I've seen yet to help prolong their life is what Argo is doing with their alum seal housings. It can only help. Maybe I should start making some of those for the 62 & 72mm? Any one interested?
    Attached Images

  10. #10
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    BEAUTIFUL! Thanks Whipper. The next machine will have 1 1/4" splined axles. I wonder if the Max II/IV axles are anywhere the right length for the Attex. Anyone have any idea? It would be nice to drive down to RI for replacements. I'll still find a way to break 'em.

    ~m

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