Siezed Briggs 16hp Vanguard... buy new or rebuild?

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Thread: Siezed Briggs 16hp Vanguard... buy new or rebuild?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Wildwood Fl
    Posts
    126
    I think I would trar it down and see what the problem is and then decide, I agree with Bazooo it may be something thats an easy fix. If you get into it and it needs rebuilding I think your still better off than the Duro Max and youll be more familar with it on the trail

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Garner, NC
    Posts
    865
    Quote Originally Posted by anotheramature View Post
    I think I would trar it down and see what the problem is and then decide, I agree with Bazooo it may be something thats an easy fix. If you get into it and it needs rebuilding I think your still better off than the Duro Max and youll be more familar with it on the trail
    and to add,,,, the satisfaction of doing it is priceless. besides what can it hurt to tear into it, its already not working,,,, the least you can do is find out what caused it to seize.
    HUSTLEMANIAC and a HONORARY MEMBER of the
    BIGFOOT ALUMNI

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Colonial Heights, VA
    Posts
    497
    I am with everyone else. To tear into it and do it yourself could be a simple fix, it could be as simple as a bolt or nut has fallin down in behind your flywheel and wedged itself in there, or it could be that you have a pistion that has broke off from the control arm that is wedge, either of which is not outside of your know how. just on a smaller scale. Me and Fred had a great time learning and repairing our engines. So far we have done a 16hp, 18, and I will need to do my rings on my 20hp(bored out to be 30hp).
    Hold My B..R and Watch This!!!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    17
    I started tearing into it last night and it looks like (keep your fingers crossed)...... something fell behind the flywheel.... valves look good, oil looks good, and it will turn over by hand on the on the flywheel with a little finesse. definitely sounds like something fell behind the flywheel and is binding.

    going to pull the flywheel this weekend and hope for the best. anyone know exactly what size and thread bolts i need to have for the puller... i noticed the motor seems to be metric....
    Last edited by fastEd; 01-17-2013 at 04:46 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
    Posts
    3,286
    No pulled needed. Use a big strap wrench and crescent wrench to loosen the big bolt. When you have loosened the bolt, beat on it with a hammer. I use a 2 1/2 lb hammer for this. The fly wheel will then come loose. Remove the bolt and just take the fly wheel off by hand.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    If your engine is newer and there isn't any corrosion on the shaft or the flywheel you can do what Drew suggested and it'll work well. If your flywheel hasn't been off in a long time or there's some corrosion on it, you'll need a puller. Use a steering wheel puller. You can get one from Autozone with their free loan a tool service. All the correct hardware should be in the kit.

    Steering Wheel Puller | AutoZone.com
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    rhode island
    Posts
    709
    I dropped a screw driver tip in there engine running. shut it down and locked it up. got the flywheel off with puller, pretty easy. don't rotate the flywheel to much though as you can damage the magnets. after cleaning the dirt and magnet debris I only had minor damage to two magnets but be prepared to get a new stator. I had more damage to it and replaced it. I'm no mechanic and I got it all resolved. I didn't do anything to the flywheel but clean it and re install. I still get 13.5 volts on the meter. I looked high and low for a new flywheel though and mine was dicontinued and many places listed it in stock but seemed everyones invertory listed as wrong. I did get one later for pretty cheap but haven't needed it so far.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
    Posts
    2,604
    I have several good used flywheels and stators if you end up needing either one
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    672
    Section 3 in the manual i posted describes how to get the flywheel off.
    If you dont have a puller unscrew the nut till its flush with the end of the crankshaft
    and use a brass punch when you hit it.
    That way you wont damage the nut or threads.

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