Siezed Briggs 16hp Vanguard... buy new or rebuild?

[fastEd]

I'm still working on my 1998 MAX IV restoration. We had it all done and seemed to be running good.

The max had sat for a few years and wouldn't start when i bought it 4 months ago.
we replaced the fuel lines, rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, oil, etc and it was running great.

I had it out today and all of a sudden at basically idle speed barely moving something broke loose in the engine, just a small rattle sound not a loud bang or knock at first i thought the belt or clutch was hitting something, it was still running but i killed it once i realized the engine had a rattle.

when i tried to restart it, locked up....damn... cant get it to turn over with the pull cord either.

what would you do? something like this Cheap and easy:

DuroMax 16 Hp., 1'' Shaft, Recoil/Electric Start Engine - XP16HPE XP16HPE

take it a part and try a rebuild
785-290 Overhaul Kit for Briggs & Stratton 400400, 400700, 401400, 402707, 404700, 422400 and 422700; for 16 and 18 HP standard engines

Or should i take this as an opportunity to go with something more powerful than 16hp

[jpswift1]

This is a shot in the dark, but Briggs Vanguard pushrods are commonly culprits for internal engine issues. I personally would stick with a Briggs Vanguard rather than the DuroMax engine. I think you'd get better performance out of it. OR save up some money and put it toward a larger V twin Briggs or Kohler. Sometimes they come up cheap online. Just some thoughts to consider.

[fastEd]

Any experience rebuilding one?

[jpswift1]

I never had to do any internal work on a Briggs Vanguard, but maybe some others that have can chime in. I'd get the factory service manual. They're usually on ebay at a good price. Also, Al Hodge at Performance V Twins would be an excellent man to consult. Performance V-Twins

[racerone3]

Pull the flywheel, remove the nut/ bolt/ pebble.... whatever got behind it and wedged. replace the flywheel if it killed any magnets, stator if it got killed.... keep playing! This is just my guess, but it's fairly common

[Bazooo guy]

First thing i would check is the pushrods and valves.
Pull the valve covers and look for a bent pushrod or stuck valve or broken spring.
Try turning the flywheel backwards and see if it moves.

[CBass]

I am with everyone else. To tear into it and do it yourself could be a simple fix, it could be as simple as a bolt or nut has fallin down in behind your flywheel and wedged itself in there, or it could be that you have a pistion that has broke off from the control arm that is wedge, either of which is not outside of your know how. just on a smaller scale. Me and Fred had a great time learning and repairing our engines. So far we have done a 16hp, 18, and I will need to do my rings on my 20hp(bored out to be 30hp).

[fastEd]

I started tearing into it last night and it looks like (keep your fingers crossed)...... something fell behind the flywheel.... valves look good, oil looks good, and it will turn over by hand on the on the flywheel with a little finesse. definitely sounds like something fell behind the flywheel and is binding.

going to pull the flywheel this weekend and hope for the best. anyone know exactly what size and thread bolts i need to have for the puller... i noticed the motor seems to be metric....

[amphibious drew]

No pulled needed. Use a big strap wrench and crescent wrench to loosen the big bolt. When you have loosened the bolt, beat on it with a hammer. I use a 2 1/2 lb hammer for this. The fly wheel will then come loose. Remove the bolt and just take the fly wheel off by hand.

[jpswift1]

If your engine is newer and there isn't any corrosion on the shaft or the flywheel you can do what Drew suggested and it'll work well. If your flywheel hasn't been off in a long time or there's some corrosion on it, you'll need a puller. Use a steering wheel puller. You can get one from Autozone with their free loan a tool service. All the correct hardware should be in the kit.

Steering Wheel Puller | AutoZone.com