18 HP Vanguard Question

[liflod]

The bolts are spaced 5.25" apart. There are 4 of them evenly spaced around the recoil assembly. Are you adding a cold air intake to the Attex?

[George]

The bolts are spaced 5.25" apart. There are 4 of them evenly spaced around the recoil assembly. Are you adding a cold air intake to the Attex?

Thanks Lance,

Yes, I am. It'll be the last thing I need to do to be ready for Ledges.

I ordered an intake duct from Leo's Argo last winter. I hope to have it in place this weekend. I figured in the meantime I could experiment with ways to hold it in place but the machine is not handy for measurements as it is 190 miles away.

Thanks again.

[liflod]

I think most of them are secured to the body of the machine and there is just a rubber ring that seals it to the engine. Of course the only one I've dealt with was on a Kohler and it did not have the recoil starter. You may do the same and cut a slot for the recoil cord to run through.

[George]

Hey Lance,

Mine came with a rubber (soft plastic actually) seal. The seal has an area notched out for the recoil. I thought it better to try and mount the whole thing to the engine so that I could adjust the belt tension without having to remount the duct each time.

I intend to have the top of the duct rest on my homemade engine cover in such a way that it bears the burden of supporting duct's weight. In this way, there won't be as much stress on the four points that I'll use to anchor it to the engine. Those points will be used more to maintain a tight seal than support the duct.

[liflod]

RI uses a piece of uni-strut that allows the shroud to move back and forth with the engine. That way the shroud isn't vibrating constantly with the engine.

[fulleraviation]

Hey Guy's,

Just an update on the engine mods and clutch mods that I have done.

First of all the high speed clutch from Richard is the best mod that I have done period!

The engine is holding up very well, with the minor stuff added that is posted in this thread especially now that I know how to adjust the lash at 1/4 inch past and not a 1/4 turn past.

I have gotton away from turning high rpm due to the new clutch install. I stay between 4,000 and 4,200 rpm.

I took out the time advance key and went back with the stock key. Low rpm acceleration is better, but high rpm acceleration is a little less. It also doesnt want to rev past 4,300 rpm without a great deal of effort. With the timing key it would runup to 4,800 rpm pretty quick.

I find that my type of riding calls for better accel down low. When/if I install new rods and a moded cam I will probably go back to the advance key.

With the high speed clutch, I am see about 25-27 mph at 4,000rpm and can hit 30 and over above 4,200rpm. These numbers have chanced some from the orginal install maybe due to the new drive belt tension and break in.

Remember that my stock steup was 18mph at 4,000 rpm. Needless to say, I am very pleased with the mods.

Rutledge

[Robinhood02]

I bumped this thred because it is definatly one of the best "how to hop up a small engine" threds i've ever seen and it dates back to 2007, some pretty extensive work here but seems to cover it all

[liflod]

I'll 2nd the "Bump this Thread"
Thanks Roger for great information. Your advice is still appreciated.

I think I figured out my hard starting issue with the electric starter on my Max IV. If I adjusted the valves wrong, I defeated my compression release. I'll post my findings once thier found.