assembling a power train

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Thread: assembling a power train

  1. #1

    assembling a power train

    OK. I have this;





    And am thinking about buying this for power;

    DuroMax 16 Hp., 1'' Shaft, Recoil/Electric Start Engine - XP16HPE XP16HPE

    What is required on the output shaft of the engine to drive the transmission? What key dimensions/issues need to be considered? Not familiar with this type of drive train as its a bit different to a FE and toploader or C6!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    You will need a primary clutch like this 302405A-W2 - 780 Series Drive Clutch for Recreatives Ind Max ATVs | ATV Parts | MFG Supply
    AND you will need to replace your secondary clutch as yours is WAY TOO RUSTY. Hopefully your "black box" has a 7/8" shaft for the secondary clutch. That is what a T-20 trans has, and they are easier to find.
    The primary clutches are fairly hard to find used, but I think member JPSwift1 has one for sale right now. Used secondary clutches are a little easier to find....I bet Jeff has one of those too.

    Make sure to verify your shaft size before ordering.
    http://www.6x6world.com/forums/parts...tch-175-a.html
    Member amphibious drew has a Briggs engine for sale too http://www.6x6world.com/forums/parts...ard-425-a.html
    The Briggs engine is a much nicer engine than the duromax.

  3. #3
    Thanks.

    So I gather these clutches are engaged by the rotational speed, as it picks up the clutch "clamps" down on the belt. The primary and secondary always have some "spin" but as RPM increases they both engage at pre-defined speeds?

    So disassembling and cleaning/media blasting the existing pulley/clutch and powder coating or painting is not an option?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    Quote Originally Posted by mert View Post

    So I gather these clutches are engaged by the rotational speed, as it picks up the clutch "clamps" down on the belt. The primary and secondary always have some "spin" but as RPM increases they both engage at pre-defined speeds?
    Couldn't have said it better myself....

    With a secondary clutch that's that rough (it looks pitted in the picture....) you need to replace it. No amount of sandblasting will put metal back on the wear surface of the secondary and with the shape it's in, it'll frag a belt in a matter of seconds; sandblasted or not. You can still blast anything that has surface rust, but don't bother powder coating where the belt runs on the pulleys. The coating will get destroyed quickly, and the system is designed for the belt to run on an unpainted steel or aluminum surface.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Mercer, pa
    Posts
    161
    imo you would be much better off with the engine drew has for sale. I can verify it runs great I got to ride in his max iv on tuesday

  6. #6
    Thanks for the tips. Have powdercoated and painted numerous pulleys for power steering, etc on my Mustangs, never any issues. I guess this system is a bit different.

    Tried to pull off the old clutch, its not moving and see no way to get a puller on it. Oddly, like pretty much everything we've disassembled on the vehicle, the retaining bolt came right out. But the clutch will not come off the splined shaft. PB Blaster soaked and some light tapping, no luck. Suggestions?

    As for a used engine, that would be good, but the ad indicates pick-up, I need it shipped as logistics for me are difficult. Have to have it sent to a friend up the road from the location of the Muscateer as I am only here for a couple weeks (leaving Sunday) and will not be back for a few months as its a vacation getaway spot, not home... so drop-ship to a helpful neighbor who parks it in the garage.

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