kohlers motor identifying

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Thread: kohlers motor identifying

  1. #1

    kohlers motor identifying

    i know its a kohlers and i think its around a 25hp motor anyone know.. i dont know if this thing even runs i got it for free but it turns over and seems to be ready to fire up if it was all together photo(33).jpg

    i started to rub the tag to read the numbers but they are being rubbed off so i stopped be for it was polished aluminumphoto(34).jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
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    2,910
    725cc is a 25hp. Now Kohler is calling it a ch730

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
    725cc is a 25hp. Now Kohler is calling it a ch730
    thank you!

    good motors right? 25hp good number to work around with?

    anyone got a starter mine wont turn the motor over with the plugs in.. motor looks like brand new inside photo(35).jpg inside the carb looks the same

    plugs look like it ran yesterday motor looks 20 years old on the out side

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Kohlers are good motors.

    Try this starter http://www.6x6world.com/forums/parts...r-starter.html

  5. #5
    HI
    The 25HP have a accelerator pump kehin carby [remove air cleaner and have a look ]
    The butterfly bore is 28mm

    The 23hp have a 26mm kehin carb with NO accelerator pump

    Early v twins up till about 5 year ago had Nippon denso starter motors [Japanese made ]
    Believe it that these were rubbish starters [were intended for smaller engines ]
    The later starters are the Taiwan made Delco starter .

    As with all small engines mainly b@s vanguard,, kohler etc use a very large battery and at least automotive cables in size for pos and neg . Measure at the solenoid that ur achieving 9.5--10.0during cranking . The small siginal wire to solenoid be at least battery voltage 12v or greater . This wire typically runs thru the ignition switch which causes voltage drop .

    Most of the time the starters will grind the teeth on the flywheel and starter bendix then stop working
    Grab a file and tidy up the leading edge of the flywheel if this is the case . Beaware that the flywheel teeth can be worn so bad a new flywheel is required .

    The very old approx. 2002 and earlier 25hp had ""nikil sil ""cylinder bores These cannot be reconditioned . u need the numbers to check with kohler or find out what was the original machine it was fitted to then approach kohler again .
    With the 25 hp kohlers they run hot when only pushed a little """"""""this will destroy them """""

    tomo
    Last edited by Tomo; 07-03-2013 at 09:28 PM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Tomo View Post
    HI
    The 25HP have a accelerator pump kehin carby [remove air cleaner and have a look ]
    The butterfly bore is 28mm

    The 23hp have a 26mm kehin carb with NO accelerator pump

    Early v twins up till about 5 year ago had Nippon denso starter motors [Japanese made ]
    Believe it that these were rubbish starters [were intended for smaller engines ]
    The later starters are the Taiwan made Delco starter .

    As with all small engines mainly b@s vanguard,, kohler etc use a very large battery and at least automotive cables in size for pos and neg . Measure at the solenoid that ur achieving 9.5--10.0during cranking . The small siginal wire to solenoid be at least battery voltage 12v or greater . This wire typically runs thru the ignition switch which causes voltage drop .

    Most of the time the starters will grind the teeth on the flywheel and starter bendix then stop working
    Grab a file and tidy up the leading edge of the flywheel if this is the case . Beaware that the flywheel teeth can be worn so bad a new flywheel is required .

    The very old approx. 2002 and earlier 25hp had ""nikil sil ""cylinder bores These cannot be reconditioned . u need the numbers to check with kohler or find out what was the original machine it was fitted to then approach kohler again .
    With the 25 hp kohlers they run hot when only pushed a little """"""""this will destroy them """""

    tomo

    i have determinded its off a log spliter it has wood shavings all over it.. thanks for your advise

    do you guys think this would be worth putting in my amphicat? dont look like a hard deal to make work.

  7. #7
    hi
    need to no your shaft diameter to see if its suitable for a clutch either 1 inch or 1 1/8 is fine
    If ok install and measure compressions and oil pressure and leak down if u have a guage .
    U need the numbers to determine if nikil sil bores [also the bores are badly pit when worn and or overheat ]
    Engine size group can be determined by first carby and numbers and then pulling a cylinder head and checking oil drain slot in head . This will approx. tell u the vintage and u can measure bore size also.

    There are problems with this engine but all engines have problems
    A kohler v twin has upgrades to 90% of the parts over time

    tomo

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenewguy View Post
    i have determinded its off a log spliter it has wood shavings all over it.. thanks for your advise

    do you guys think this would be worth putting in my amphicat? dont look like a hard deal to make work.
    I would suggest selling it, and using something a little smaller in the Amphicat. A Duromax 16hp (or harbor freight) would make a good choice. They run great and are inexpensive. Amphicats were not known for their strength, and adding that much extra hp will just stress things more.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
    I would suggest selling it, and using something a little smaller in the Amphicat. A Duromax 16hp (or harbor freight) would make a good choice. They run great and are inexpensive. Amphicats were not known for their strength, and adding that much extra hp will just stress things more.
    Sorry maybe I should say my ampihcat is not close to stock and I'm considering finding a t20 to put in
    It's already upgraded to 1 1/4 axles and max II sprockets the whole thing is torn apart and being restored so perfect time to consider a project like this also frame don't look weak in any way ether

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
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    With a T-20 and #50 chain you should be OK.
    Last edited by thebuggyman1; 07-04-2013 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Quality #50 chain

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