You probably have 5 wires to worry about....
Large battery+ wire to the starter
Small 12v+ wire to the starter solenoid while starting
W/ignition on, 12v to the carb (fuel shut off solenoid)
W/ ign off - or chassis ground to a single wire from under the flywheel (this kills the motor)
The last wire is 12v+ from the voltage regulator to the battery (charges the battery). The regulator is probably under the air shroud next to the flywheel where it will get coooled. This wire may already be connected to the starter terminal.
Your picture looks like the motor has a key switch on it??? If so, you will find the kill and carb wires there.
your right it does have a key switch but im gonna do away with that if i use this motor but that dont matter right now... someone cut some of the wires so thats why i was wondering.. i could prob get it back together few piece still hooked up and just need spliced few hanging with nothing to splice back in..
hi ,
if u ring kohler even with the partial numbers u have [did not see photos before ] they may be able to fill in the rest for u . The 25hp is common to 26,27,28,30hp there are major components that r interchangeable .
Workshop manuals are free online [with wiring diagrams]
There is a big chance u will have a earth wire on the inlet manifold bolt ,attach this some where else
U have a spark advance module SAM there is a different wiring for these
There is analogue and digital units either the coils interchange or the modules do,, cannot remember ask kohler
People blame the SAM module when spark fails [black box ] this only controls advance .
Typical for kohler is that spark leaks out of the plug lead to earth .THIS IS SO SO COMMON......
U have head bolts ,the later engines have head studs for better gasket seal
tomo
Last edited by Tomo; 07-04-2013 at 04:17 PM.
You'll have to turn the crankshaft down so it will accept one of the common clutches, I just had the same issue with a N.O.S. Tecumseh.
The shaft is probably a 1 7/16", it was a very common size and that's what my Kohler started out as.
Turning it down to 1 1/8" is your best bet....going to 1" may weaken it too much. That's too bad, because the 1" clutches are much cheaper. I paid $400 for the CVTech PowerBloc 80 I bought. Here's a comet 1195 302469A - 1195 Series Drive Clutch for Recreatives Ind Max ATVs | ATV Parts | MFG Supply and the powerbloc IBC Cvtech PowerBlock Drive Clutch 1 1 8" Bore Replace Comet Duster Salsbury 780 | eBay
how'd you guys go about turning the crank down
remove it form motor and send to machine shop?
also anyone have a bad starter for this motor.. i got mine to work great but dumb me over tighten the casing after taking it apart and cleaning and greasing it up... so i need part of the case to fix mine....
Last edited by thenewguy; 07-05-2013 at 05:53 PM.
Make sure you take the crank to a machine shop that does engines...The cranks can be a little tricky to turn down and it should be done by someone with some experience.
You may also want to buy the clutch first and take with you, that way the key way and clutch fit end up right.