1999 conquest clutch / belt issue

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Thread: 1999 conquest clutch / belt issue

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Pole AK
    Posts
    768
    Are you sure the other conquests are not a lower gear ratio???? If they are you will be "faster" another thing to check is make sure your engine is running right.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Northern Ontario
    Posts
    101
    Have you compared how deep the belt sits in the driven clutch when not in motion. My 1999 conquest driven clutch holds the belt 1/8 inch above the shives when stopped. If the shimming between the shives are too thick it will allow the belt to sit deeper in the driven clutch resulting in similar symptoms as a loose belt. It will also make it easier to remove the belt. I would compare with the two other machines.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Copper Center, Alaska
    Posts
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by Howie View Post
    Center to center distance on a Conquest is 15.35"
    .”Thanks Howie, this is what info I got, Conquest’s clutch spacing… “The clutch C to C should be 15.35 inches and the offset should be 2.05 inches

    they are all the "MU" ratio, thanks

    Yes, my belt sits approx. 1/8 out of the clutch, first thing we look at, we have been running up & down the "test hill" with the fire wall out , comparing how each clutch responds in relation to grade & RPM, mine starts out OK, then starts to buck, it rans just fine minor grades & trails with no problems but come into a STEEP hill & this is only when I notice it. won't have the trans back in the machine for a couple more days, work gets in the way of fun every time. thanks for the thoughts though!
    Last edited by Mike; 07-24-2013 at 06:40 PM. Reason: merged three consecutive posts. You can reply to everyone at once using the multi-quote button

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Copper Center, Alaska
    Posts
    78
    OK guys & gals, I found the problem. My power pack frame is bent. It is cup shaped (looking from the side) making the top of the trany & top of the engine closer together. I ordered up a new frame from Argo & will take pics of the new & old for comparison. It should be in about a week from now. Like I said earlier, the machine ran fine down the trail for the most part, but start up a hill & putting a strain on the drive train, it would buck (in high range) then I would have to shift into low, where the other machines I run with would keep going.
    If I did not have the other machines for comparison I probably would not have known better & just thought it was the nature of the BEAST.
    Again, I would like to thank everyone for responding & taking time to read this link. I got the power pack frame out & now just waiting to back to work & the new frame to arrive.
    More later.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Copper Center, Alaska
    Posts
    78
    Now it is final, the new powerpac frame is in, engine & trans & all related pieces to make it go are in place & it measures 15 7/16 C/C, test ran machine & whala, ran excellent, just had to fine tune the secondary clutch & she pulls the steepest hill no problem, in high range, tried our STEEP test hill in low & I finally made it up without winching where the other 2 machines made it up no problem.

    I've been chasing this "clutch issue" for a couple of years, & would like to take this opportunity to share my findings to hopefully save someone some time & money, probably a chance to spend some money actually. So, the bent frame was hard to see with the engine & trans in place, the first thing to check is the distance, center to center between engine shaft & trans shaft, which factory spec is 15.35 inch. this should tell the story.
    Last edited by moos-a-boo; 08-10-2013 at 10:44 PM.

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