Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

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Thread: Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464

    Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

    Changed T-20 transmission fluid and added limited slip 4 oz. I have just put a new engine in the machine also. When I started it up the machine it wanted to take off on me when I put it in forward. I had to hold back on the laterals to keep from moving forward. What would cause that and how do I fix it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
    Posts
    3,286
    Those stupid springs that hold your laterals cause it. Remove springs and smelt them as to prevent anyone else from having to use them.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    Your belt is probably too tight. MaxIV's are a little tougher to adjust the belt tension than most other machines. With the engine sitting above the trans you have to add/remove shims/spacers to raise/lower the motor and change the belt tension.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    Drew am I going to have to push forward on the laterals to go forward if I remove the springs? Jim, I measured the height to the center of the shaft on the old engine and did the same with the new engine and they are exactly the same. I replaced the same spacers under the new engine, so I would be exactly the same as before. The belt sits just on the clutch with little or no friction. I'm wondering if when I changed the fluids it is running the way it is suppose to, but needs adjustment now.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Hermann, MO
    Posts
    568
    If the belt is not too tight, your engine may be idling high which will engauge the clutch.
    Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    FAIRBANKS AK
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by MaxRules View Post
    If the belt is not too tight, your engine may be idling high which will engauge the clutch.
    Second this, my machine did this until Msafi65 helped change out a bad rear bearing and reset it after pulling the motor.
    1995 Max IV , (#11582), 23 HP Vanguard, Custom aluminum bellyband/roll-bars with direct winch attachment. Recreatives track kit.
    Work in progress. Front windshield and canvas enclosure for winter use.

    Alaska AATV Owners Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    How snug or loose can the belt be up on the driven end (top end) when engine is off?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
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    2,910
    Quote Originally Posted by wheeler View Post
    How snug or loose can the belt be up on the driven end (top end) when engine is off?
    That's different with every machine and clutch set up. Besides, how would it be measured?
    ATV and Snowmobile Belts - by Dayco

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    What I don't understand is after I changed the fluid the machine wants to crawl forward when put into gear. The idle speed is down the belt is not sitting directly on the top pulley enough where it would engage the clutch.. Everything has been put back exactly the same way. I have to believe the t-20 is working better than before. BUT, if I decide to take the springs off of the laterals, how can I get to them without pulling the engine again.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
    Posts
    7,788
    Quote Originally Posted by wheeler View Post
    BUT, if I decide to take the springs off of the laterals, how can I get to them without pulling the engine again.
    The springs are attached to eye bolts. You tighten the springs by tightening a nut on the eye bolts. If you loosen those nuts, eventually you will get enough slack to remove the spring or the nut will come off the eye bolt. Either way, the springs will be easy to remove. Once you take a look at the springs, I'm sure you will see it.

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