Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

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Thread: Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    Hey Thanks Mike and just a question. By adjusting those springs thru the eyebolts could that be a way of stopping the forward movement in gear. Also what is your opinion about removing those springs?

  2. #12
    Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-11-2016 at 07:31 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    Pull the rear floor board, and or rear seat to get to the springs....but you shouldn't need to remove them. I'd try putting the machine in neutral, starting it, and at idle, try to stop the secondary from turning. DO NOT use your hand. Use a stick, broom handle, or something similar to add friction to the outside of the belt. It should only take light pressure to stop it, and that is normal. Even when the clutch is disengaged the belt has enough friction to spin the secondary. If it is hard to stop something IS wrong. It is very common for the machines to want to crawl forward at idle on hard level ground....add a little rolling resistance and it will stop.

    I modified the seats in my MaxIV to flip up for easy access to the battery under the front seat and the trans adjustments behind the rear seat.
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    I went from an 18 hp briggs to a 23 hp briggs. If you take the springs off of the laterals there is no tension right and you just move the laterals forward to get moving. I can take the belt and can slide it around with no tension on the clutch.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    Jim, is the secondary the lower clutch right off of the t-20? There goes my rookie mentality.

  6. #16
    Last edited by Model Citizen; 07-11-2016 at 07:28 PM.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    When both engines were out, I measured from the center of each shaft and they are exactly the same. There is no change in height which would affect the distance between the primary and secondary clutch. Nothing should of changed at all. Like I said the only change whatsoever is the change of fluid in the tranny. I am going to take a stick and see if the secondary stops spinning with slight pressure and if it does than we know it is not the clutch or belt. This is gotta be pretty elementary and I know we can get it figured out. I just hate like hell to have to take the engine loose again.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    Stick pressure does not stop the spinning. It is spinning at a pretty good clip and I'm afraid for some dumb reason I'm gonna have to take the engine loose again and remove more washers. They only thing is the belt spins freely on the clutch when not running. Hmmm

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Meadville, Pa
    Posts
    3,286
    Lower your idle rpm's through your governor and bending the tab with the small spring on it that goes to the linkage. Also, did you remember to take you old governor spring off your old engine and replace the new engines spring with it. It's the tightly wound spring that's coils are only about an inch or so long and about a cm total width.
    l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    Drew, I'm not sure where the governor actually looks like. If you have pictures that would be great.

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