Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

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Thread: Hold back on laterals to keep from moving forward

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    Great news
    "I figured out all the issues. I did some adjustments to the governor and adjusted some other things."
    Can you let us know what you found, and how the items were adjusted?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    464
    Hey Thanks Guys and Gals
    Yea, first of all let me tell you that I have dedicated almost 2 weeks to this project and have thrown a wrench or two when nobody was looking. I also learned by trial and error.
    1) Engine will not start - no electrical power to the engine - Remedy was finding a bad ground. The ground was on the bottom where the ground strap hooks to the frame. Thats a spot you wouldn't think of very much.
    2) Idle speed was fine but no power (engine was doggy). Had no idle screw adjustment left. Found a spring on the engine going to the governor was not put on right, it was in the wrong hole. Put spring back to where we believe it should've been. Now I could adjust idle screw.
    3) At Idle the machine moves forward at a pretty fast pace - Remedy was adding and removing shims until the belt was riding right. Also had to get the idle turned town before shimming. I was back and forth on that one. Idle then shims.
    4) Still had no speed and was doggy and not wanting to start - Remedy was moving governor. NOTE whenever you play with the governor you better know what your doing. It took me several days of asking, talking, researching to find what would work. ANY small movement and I mean small movement to the governer really affects everything, starting, idling and speed. I learned by my mistakes and it took me several days of playing with it to get it where I wanted it. I have the machine tached to 4000 rpm right now and with that I can literally spin all 6 tires.
    5) One of the issues I had was with the wiring. The wiring on the new engine was via key, right on the new engine. The issues that I had and I'm not an electrician were how to incorporate the wires from my key switch to the engine. At the time of engine transfer, I had a Solenoid that was right on the engine platform where most everything ran to. But the Solenoid on my new engine came attached via strap to the starter but it did not have the 2 ground poles on the outside of the solenoid as my old one did. I had to learn how first to get power to my starter via solenoid on my engine. With my old setup, power went to the solenoid on the frame directly to the starter on the engine not to the solenoid. To be honest I really didn't know what a solenoid did on an engine but learned from asking around. I ran power directly to the new solenoid post via battery. There was no fuel solenoid on my old engine and when you start to remove wires you have to account for all the wires on the new engine one being the fuel solenoid. I did not have that connection on my old motor so I had to get power to that via new wiring but that had to be tied into the key switch also.
    6) Muffler from the 18 hp did not connect up properly to the new 23 hp engine. I took it to a muffler shop and he cut, bent, welded and fitted it to my new engine. Still cost me 50 bucks! But well worth it.
    7) Coincedence or not with all the changes made, I kept having a dead battery in the morning and kept having to charge it everyday. My friend had a battery he gave me from a 4 wheeler that he did not need. It was used but it tested out fine. so I put it in today and it starts fine. We will see in the morning what happens.. I'm gonna have the old battery tested tomorrow at NAPA to see if it is actually the battery that was bad or if I have a power drain somewhere.
    I'm sure there is some things I missed but if I think about it I will let you know what I missed. Now, I just want to go out and have some fun!
    Last edited by wheeler; 08-01-2013 at 07:28 AM.

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