1.5" thick repro UHMW crosser (elevated-belt) with 1/8" steel insert

[Buzz]

hi buzz
great thread I wanted to know? do you buy your belting precut, and what ply do you recommend. im just getting started on a set of channel tracks iv bent a few crossers pretty easy, I also purchase some 2" cleated snowmobile tracks! with you expertise which ones would you build first. thanks mark

My advice would be to build the channel tracks as you'll be able to use them in more conditions. Put your nose to the grindstone and start hammering them out. Just make sure that you get the crossers identical the best you can. If you have a problem doing this, just strike layout lines on your rubber belting ( like to use a white paint pen....every 4 or 5 inches perpendicular to the belt edge). Then when you get a crosser done and drilled.....lay it on the next white line and adjust the guide portions so they're symmetrical....and mark the white line (through the drilled holes in the crosser belt surface) with a sharpie so you can see it on the white line. It will be slower this way, but you won't battle inconsistencies in crosser dimensions and holes matching up with pre-drilled holes in the rubber. Sometimes I buy belting pre-cut if it's in 4, 5, o 6 inch widths. Other times I'll buy a wide roll...like 20 or 30 inches wide and cut it to desired widths. I would use whatever ply you can find the best deal on (in a remnant if possible). I shoot to find 20' sections, which leaves some leftover. If you're going with a hinge, you can get away with 18' at the absolute minimum for each inner and outer belt. For a given ply, adding width adds significant strength similar to adding additional thickness. You're only as strong as your hinge or overlap can hold though....which is still pretty freaking strong. Have fun!

[Buzz]

Can anyone post pictures of a Max IV with escargo tracks? I tried Google images and came up with nothing. Has any member had them on a Max IV? I would be curious to know if Chris ever sold a set of Escargos for a Max IV. Any in AK? Given the number of Max IVs sold you would think somebody would have pictures and/or experience with the Escargo on a Max IV.

Keith.

I have seen a 6x6 frontier on escargo tracks up here. Most of the others are 8x8's. To be honest, most everyone seems to have the argo factory tracks still, and lots of guys run mud-tires when winter is over. Some of the aftermarket tracks like adair and escargo are startiing to show up though.
I believe mine is the only mudd-ox that has them...so that just goes to show....aftermarket tracks are just starting to catch on in the northern areas, whereas they're probably more common down there. Especially tracks made close to home. My best guess anyway.

[millerperf]

thanks buzz im going to take your advice and keep making the channel track crossers .I did build a fixer to bend them that works pretty well, thanks again . mark

[seanno2]

My advice would be to build the channel tracks as you'll be able to use them in more conditions. Put your nose to the grindstone and start hammering them out. Just make sure that you get the crossers identical the best you can. If you have a problem doing this, just strike layout lines on your rubber belting ( like to use a white paint pen....every 4 or 5 inches perpendicular to the belt edge). Then when you get a crosser done and drilled.....lay it on the next white line and adjust the guide portions so they're symmetrical....and mark the white line (through the drilled holes in the crosser belt surface) with a sharpie so you can see it on the white line. It will be slower this way, but you won't battle inconsistencies in crosser dimensions and holes matching up with pre-drilled holes in the rubber. Sometimes I buy belting pre-cut if it's in 4, 5, o 6 inch widths. Other times I'll buy a wide roll...like 20 or 30 inches wide and cut it to desired widths. I would use whatever ply you can find the best deal on (in a remnant if possible). I shoot to find 20' sections, which leaves some leftover. If you're going with a hinge, you can get away with 18' at the absolute minimum for each inner and outer belt. For a given ply, adding width adds significant strength similar to adding additional thickness. You're only as strong as your hinge or overlap can hold though....which is still pretty freaking strong. Have fun!

20' sections are for an 8X8? How long for a 6X6?

How do you cut your UHMW? Pre-cut certain lengths and widths, draw lines, and cut with router?

[Buzz]

depends on the machines axle-to-axle and tire size. A 6x6 is one axle-to-axle distance shorter- multiply that x 2 (above and below the tire). 14 or 15' pieces would be long enough to build a 6x6 track. CNC router table is really the best way when you start talking about cutting shapes, minimizing waste, and ensuring each piece is identical.

[seanno2]

depends on the machines axle-to-axle and tire size. A 6x6 is one axle-to-axle distance shorter- multiply that x 2 (above and below the tire). 14 or 15' pieces would be long enough to build a 6x6 track. CNC router table is really the best way when you start talking about cutting shapes, minimizing waste, and ensuring each piece is identical.

What's the best design that you have come up with for the crossers? Are the steel inserts required or will the uhmw work fine without them?