1.5" thick repro UHMW crosser (elevated-belt) with 1/8" steel insert

[spookum]

Looks good buddy! Takes a while dont it! Since they are grade 8 bolts I just lined up the holes, set a bolt in and hit it with an air gun to drive them in. Works slick if the holes are just a little bit off. The steel also does a killer good job cleaning out the slots before assembly.

[spookum]

Do you think that the dual track set up would work on an 8 wheeled work get?

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BYHg8L8WGos

[Buzz]

I don't know, but looking at the wheel travel, my guess would be "maybe." I don't really know for sure. But I know the elevated belt half-track can be run very loose without coming off. I think you might have to allow for a little less track tension so that slight changes in axle centerline could still happen with 2 wheels tracked with an independent suspension. I couldn't really tell how much the tire centerline changed laterally either as the independent suspension moved up and down. Tires seemed to stay fairly aligned with each other.....maybe I should watch it again. That's a pretty cool set up. It would be fun to try!

[MAX IV Mark]

I don't know, but looking at the wheel travel, my guess would be "maybe." I don't really know for sure. But I know the elevated belt half-track can be run very loose without coming off. I think you might have to allow for a little less track tension so that slight changes in axle centerline could still happen with 2 wheels tracked with an independent suspension. I couldn't really tell how much the tire centerline changed laterally either as the independent suspension moved up and down. Tires seemed to stay fairly aligned with each other.....maybe I should watch it again. That's a pretty cool set up. It would be fun to try!

You need a job that pays you by the word. It's surprising how many you can use to say "I don't know"

[Buzz]

you're right

[Buzz]

here's another way to lower overhead and ease of assembly on this design. It would allow you to pick exactly where you want to create your "belt slot" to determine how much gear-reduction and guide-stablility you wanted to give up....in return for a bit more argo-speed. If you're into that kind of thing. I wouldn't go more than about half-way down towards the tire tread myself.

Good thing is that it wouldn't require drilling of the rubber, nuts/bolts/nylocs/loctite or even washers/backer plates. Mark the belting, to get your overall length and hinge. Slide the crossers on and drive the torx-headed fasteners into pre-drilled crosser holes. No beveling of the rubber required either. Too easy.

[Buzz]

all of my slotted crossers are finished. Getting the rubber ready as we speak. Just waiting on some rims to mount up the tires. Looking forward to giving them a whirl. Looking to get a bunch of different track-types on other machines together if anyone's interested. Anchorage/Matsu AK and surrounding area......

[wed4life]

What do you guys use for a source of the belting?
Thanks,
David

[Buzz]

AK Rubber

[2014SE]

here's another way to lower overhead and ease of assembly on this design. It would allow you to pick exactly where you want to create your "belt slot" to determine how much gear-reduction and guide-stablility you wanted to give up....in return for a bit more argo-speed. If you're into that kind of thing. I wouldn't go more than about half-way down towards the tire tread myself.

Good thing is that it wouldn't require drilling of the rubber, nuts/bolts/nylocs/loctite or even washers/backer plates. Mark the belting, to get your overall length and hinge. Slide the crossers on and drive the torx-headed fasteners into pre-drilled crosser holes. No beveling of the rubber required either. Too easy.

Here's a thought.

For drilling the rubber you might be able to build a punch jug. I was building sign stands a few years back and had to bend clips to hold the sigh, I took a cheapo press and took out the hydronic cylinder and got 2 small air cylinders and a auto return foot peddle. I built a jug with a plunger and all it took was to stick the flat bar in and step on the peddle. 1000 clips in under a hour!! Taking that idea you might be able to take a arbor press and pull the rack and pinion out and rig up a air cylinder and peddle. Then make or get made a double punch jig. Then all you'd need to do is run the rubber through with guides to keep it square to the punch and a measurement jig for your grouser spacings. One step on the peddle and you'd have 2 bolt holes in less than a second. It will take a little time and money to build something that works but if this is something you are thinking of doing on a regular bases it's a idea.

You got a excellent design!