Here's a few preliminary pics of another batch of crossers from the same batch as Spookum's. All inserts are cut, now it's drill press time. These will be used on centaur-style dual-track for the Ox.
I've got some cross-linked crazy tough UV stable UHMW en-route for some similar crossers.
These repro crossers in 1.5" get the first go!
couple more. The tire profile has a very tight radius, very square. Fits turf tires perfectly. Had to add 1/8" additional width either side for the tires and tighten up the radius to be very square. Carlisle AT101's 24x12x12
I think those crossers will work very well with the flatter tread on the turf tire. You will not get any track roll. And be far more stable over rough ground and snow.
Well done.
That 1.5" UHMW must have been crazy expensive.. $1600 or so for a 4X8?
No....more like $1250 landed in Alaska. Places in the lower 48- along the trucking routes wouldn't have to pay as much freight as us.Originally Posted by Beeman
Started fastening the inserts today. The crossers are incredibly rigid when everything is sandwiched/tightened down.
The labor for an elevated-belt track is what gets you. Once you start fabricating crossers on top of assembly ( layout, drilling rubber, washers/backer plates, bolts, put crossers on, hand-tight fasteners, flip track, final tighten, trim/bevel belting etc) in addition to doing the hinge. This style track takes a long time to build even if all you're doing is bolting on crossers. Fabricating like Escargo does or doing steel inserts is definitely a labor of love...or something
Yah... With the extra labor involved I hope the steel inserts will be with it! How much steel do you have sticking out?
Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/
85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.
78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"
ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle
3/8"
I used 1 1/4" flat bar, .125 thick. UHMW height under tire is 7/8 for a total of 1.25" cleat height including steel. Next time I'll use a smaller routered edge and maybe another 1/8" UHMW...maybe. Once the 1/4" bolts x 3 (grade-8 overkill) are tight, that thing is a real stiffy. So I don't think a guy "has" to go taller on the UHMW, especially if a stronger more abrasion resistant grade is used? We'll see. The steel insert I think will really protect the UHMW from hardpack that might "mushroom" reprocessed UHMW over time.
What I've found with the UHMW so far (up here) is that it goes from looking "brand new" to basically getting scuffed up / gouged up more or less immediately. Then it stays like that for a long time. You'll slowly scrape small pieces away from any mushroomed edges, but it takes a long time. The process kind of repeats itself over the "wear-life" of the cleat. Cleat height/thickness comes into play too. A better grade of UHMW would hold up a lot better, but extra thickness if using reprocessed helps.
I've found the "mushrooming" as you refer to it sort of aids in traction. My Max IV has about 150 hours on it's tracks and I really can't detect much wear even with a caliper.
Keith.
ADAIR TRACKS, WITHOUT 'EM YOUR JUST SPINNING YOUR WHEELS
REMEMBER KIDS, THE FIRST "A" in AATV STANDS FOR AMPHIBIOUS
Had a little garage time today. I think I knocked out about 50 crossers. Haven't tightened the inserts yet, but it's starting to look like something-
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