35HP Vanguard Mods?

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Thread: 35HP Vanguard Mods?

  1. #11
    hi ,
    Which size carby does Al use for the big block ??. His comment for the small block is that he only uses the non pump carb was due to pricing . The tm pump carbs are a little pricey . The benefit is very good throttle response way better than any non pump carby . A pumper carb is mechanically connected to your foot but a non pumper is only vacumn sensing reaction so therefore changes in fuel metering are slow . The use of a single 36mm would be the smallest carb I would use but there are 4 things at play here
    1 / it is not a high reving engine
    2 / does not have highly efficient cylinder heads
    3/ having the largest carburetor is only good for one part of the rev range
    4/ the buggy is heavier than a motor bike, torque is equally as important as WOT hp

    tomo

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Waldo Wi
    Posts
    941

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Waldo Wi
    Posts
    941
    Well I guess i'll answer the timing key question. the key is just a guide/tool, many builders over the yrs don't even use a key. the keys sold are nothing more than a notched stock part. the most important thing is to mate the flywheel to the shaft using valve lapping compound. you can install the key into the shaft and scribe a line at the base and remove it and just cut 1/2 the width of the key down to the scribe line. you will gain about 3 degrees of advanced timing but its always best to check it before and after with a timing light. install the key with the notch to the left and install the flywheel and rotate it clockwise t'il you feel it hit the key.
    Don't waste Your money on the rev limiter, use your tach as your guide
    Al builds engines for a living and it would be crazy for him to give away all His tricks over the phone IMO. a 1000cc's is volume and you need to have enough carb to supply it, ignition and cam timing/lift, jetting etc will determine your full range of torque but others may have a different view

  4. #14
    Awesome, Thanks Guys.

    I'll keep all the factors and insight in mind.

    I'm still waiting for the Shims so I wan't be working on it until I get those in.
    I'll keep you posted.

  5. #15
    hi
    The advice Al gives is comprehensive and details specifically to the vanguard engine .This just shortens your test and tune /dyno time . Tuning is all about where u want the hp/torque to occur . Specific to application . By using the largest or all the smallest spec items almost guarantees a less than desirable outcome . A vanguard engine typically has restricted cylinder heads and to a lesser degree the inlet manifold [depending on rev limit ] The camshaft has to have a lot more duration to try to rev the engine . Even the lifter design /size has an effect compromising the profile of cam shaft . A rev limiter and preferably a multi stage unit is used more so for engine protection and sometimes as a no look tacho guide . Considering a vanguard with shims under the valve springs only extends the rpm limit a small amount and tolerates little or no over rev an engine saving device will be a good investment . Gearing and cvt setup influences this also .To not understand how a complete engine/chassis/ vehicle package works and in what application seriously compromises an outcome.

    tomo
    Last edited by Tomo; 02-07-2014 at 06:19 PM.

  6. #16
    Thanks Tomo.

    The Valve shims came in today, So I'll probably get to it by next week.
    I want to mount the Tach also before the next test run.

    I am gonna need to look into the CVT to see what kind of adjustments I can make along with what I have already modded.

  7. #17
    hi
    Hollywoodc,
    The final drive or diff ratio is what I would be interested . I suspect your buggy may be trying to rev way to hard [undergeared ][runs out of speed also ].Was the original engine a high reving unit?? hp and torque at what rpm ..??
    U need to compare the engines and beaware if the final drive ratio is correct or not
    Once the final drive is known the gear shift pattern can be sorted .
    What clutches do u have primary and secondary ???????.
    Is the transmission shaft centre to the centre of the engine shaft correct for the belt [cen to cen distance
    Another way is the belt correct fitting at idle fully out on the secondary and fully in on the driven eg adjust trans and engine apart till the secondary starts to rotate and back off
    At max throttle does the belt on the primary shift fully outwards and on the secondary fully inwards .
    Belt alignment ,belts square to each other and inline . Some clutches do run some offset
    Belt tension should be 1- 11/2 inch deflection
    Should be able to roll belt out of clutches without difficulty

    Once the belt/ clutch /final drive , has been sorted the helix in the secondary can be changed to suit the acceleration and deceleration required pick a middle spec unit and change from there .
    Lastly fine tune the helix with a spring ,once again start in the middle of the spring selection and go from there .

    tomo

  8. #18
    Tomo, Thats alot of info to take in right now but its exactly what I needed.
    Let me go through what the actually setup is with some pics and get back to you.

    The Gearbox is a Chinese Knockoff of an RPM Gearbox which is used on Minibuggies.
    The gearing ratio is 10:1, which is commonly used on CVT setups.
    The Motorcycle engine powered buggies use the 5:1 gearing ratio.

    The CVT had a label "TEAM".
    Im not too familiar with CVT's and their mechanism setup, I guess this is a good time as any to get accustom to tuning it.

    I'll get back to you with more info.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Waldo Wi
    Posts
    941
    Team clutches are the best out there and are way tune-able, one needs to keep in mind that the machine is runnin' in soft sand so ya gotta run a lot of R's, but You already know that
    Get the engine setup for 6K and go from there

  10. #20
    hi
    Assuming we are talking about the same thing, final drive / diff ratio 10;1 ratio is way under geared and and causing the engine to rev quickly and run out of revs [restricting top speed also]. Tire diameter has to be taken into consideration also, smaller tire less top speed than a larger unit . IMO I would change the tire only an inch or two bigger as any larger may have a negative impact on handling .
    We agree the final drive ratio is incorrect . u need to change the ratio so first u can climb the dunes with ease [no bogging or engine laboring ]and then have some respectful top speed although that is secondary .

    tomo

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