If that is all it did its not too bad......... I keep migrating to more wheels as I get older, started on 2 and now I am at 8 I spose it is as far as I want to go must admit 8 float better than 2
If that is all it did its not too bad......... I keep migrating to more wheels as I get older, started on 2 and now I am at 8 I spose it is as far as I want to go must admit 8 float better than 2
Codswallop!Originally Posted by North Country Tough
Actually, the reason this technique is taught and the reason that this technique is safer for everyone involved and the reason we should all adopt this technique even in our cars is differential error in braking action is greater at lower brake hydraulic pressures.
What?
It means that if you hold steady your brakes down a good grade (feather in above parlance) you are more likely to generate most of the heat in one brake rather than all 4, for example. If you snub the brakes (stab used by NCT above) you use higher braking pressure, lower the differential error between brakes, and more evenly share the heat load among all brakes in the system.
Nothing to do with cooling time - that is a function of how fast you did the grade.
As a yoof I did motorcycle trials for years (slimline Bultaco Sherpa and beamish Suzuki) and I can categorically say that motorcycles don't float. Well, mine never did
So ......... the differential pressure is a given quantity, not a percentage of the hydraulic pressure ? Therefore, the higher the pressure the less the difference ?Codswallop!
Actually, the reason this technique is taught and the reason that this technique is safer for everyone involved and the reason we should all adopt this technique even in our cars is differential error in braking action is greater at lower brake hydraulic pressures.
What?
It means that if you hold steady your brakes down a good grade (feather in above parlance) you are more likely to generate most of the heat in one brake rather than all 4, for example. If you snub the brakes (stab used by NCT above) you use higher braking pressure, lower the differential error between brakes, and more evenly share the heat load among all brakes in the system.
Nothing to do with cooling time - that is a function of how fast you did the grade.
Turned out to be a very informative thread has this. And I thank you again John for your time and patience.
Yep knew it codswallop well at least you didn't call me a tosser LOL,John how does the above statement apply to a single caliper rotor assembly on the skid steer style trans since there would be no differential error in a single brake,so is it that the fact still remains X heat for y course correction irregardless of how you approach it,as Rod put it clever person needed and it doesn't apply to me as i just do what works best for me and spend no time figuring out why.NCTCodswallop!
Actually, the reason this technique is taught and the reason that this technique is safer for everyone involved and the reason we should all adopt this technique even in our cars is differential error in braking action is greater at lower brake hydraulic pressures.
What?
It means that if you hold steady your brakes down a good grade (feather in above parlance) you are more likely to generate most of the heat in one brake rather than all 4, for example. If you snub the brakes (stab used by NCT above) you use higher braking pressure, lower the differential error between brakes, and more evenly share the heat load among all brakes in the system.
Nothing to do with cooling time - that is a function of how fast you did the grade.
Well if that is so. If I am 60 now and need 8 wheels to stay up right. How many will I need at 100? I take it, I better start saving for more. Dam I was just starting to like 8 That means longer tracks.
Rod, sounds like we have taken similar paths.... i started out when i was 9 or 10 on a tiger cub then migrated to an Ossa 350 my uncle had... i then went to have a Montessa 250 of my own..... spent many a happy sunday afternoon being hosed down in the yard cos i was to dirty to be let in the house.... and i agree none of the two wheelers float no matter how big a nobbly you put on
I started with a Greeves Scottish, man what a bag of crap that wasI flipped in a ditch on one trial and it took both me and the marshal to get it back right side up
Where we used to practise we obviously had known sections and the Bultaco would do in third what the Greeves did in first
A mate of mine had a Tigga and the Bultaco's, Ossa's (always liked them) and Montesa's (never liked them
I bought a Bultaco 350 a few years ago in order to recapture my youth, all I did was hurt myself. You don't bounce so well after 50
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