Experimental chain tensioners

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Thread: Experimental chain tensioners

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    215
    Bon, thanks for the link. One thing to consider, however, is purchasing sprockets with hardened teeth. They are about twice the money but will last much longer and will keep the wear down on the chains. I used them for the two drive sprockets on the center axels.
    Did you ever get new shoes for your hustler? I really like the new rawhides on mine. They ride smooth, pull well in the mud are fair swimmers. Plus Matt O has very competitive pricing!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    582
    I had never heard about the hardened teeth? Maybe that's why the original sprockets I bought were so expensive, about 30-40 bucks apiece.

    No new tires yet. I am going to PM MattO today. Did you get the 25" rawhides? Do you miss the mudding ability of your other tires?

    I have been researching rims, and I can tell you there is not much of anything out there with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
    Hammers should have warning labels.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    northern CA
    Posts
    210
    Bonchrshr:
    It seems it'd not be so hard to buy a rim and layout and drill the correct bolt pattern, using one of your rims as a template.
    I'm sure they are mild steel, and, not super thick.......

    I'd probably get a rim with the most difference in bolt patterns, to try to avoid interference in the one you want.
    You could even weld up the holes you don't use, once you get the correct pattern.

    Does your Hustler have a "parking" brake? Mine has a handle, but, nothing connected....seems it'd be a good idea.
    Henry:
    I don't know where I'm going, but, I'm on my way...........

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    582
    Yeah, I guess what I should have said was there is a wild variance in price, most of the best deals seem to be on golf cart rims. I just got a headache yesterday weighing all of the options.....I PM'ed MattO about his rims, that seems like it would be the easiest/best solution...9" rims would open me up for 2 tire choices that are proven swimmers, Rawhides and Vampires......

    As far as a parking brake, I have most of the parts I think, but have not bothered to mess with it....seems like everywhere I ride is so flat I have never needed one. But I have the handle, cable, rotor looking thing and caliper. But the caliper does not seem to have any kind of brake pad on it??
    Hammers should have warning labels.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    582
    I uploaded a few pics of the tensioners actually in place. The rear tensioners (the ones pulling upwards on the chain from the bottom) look like they are going to work really well. The other ones I'm not too sure about, I'm going to play with it a little more. Here's the link...

    Chain tensioners pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots
    Hammers should have warning labels.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    582
    Ok, the verdict is that they seem to work really good. I rode for about 20 minutes yesterday. No chain slap at all, and they stayed tight.

    The other good thing I have realized it that this modification can be done with the frame in the vehicle. We had welded in some crossbracing that we attached the tensioners to in the front of the vehicle. This did not work out very well and now I am using the stock cross braces as a mounting point in the front.

    That being said, IMO, if you have the Hustler frame out for any reason, you should add square tubing cross bracing in the front of the frame. The stock cross braces are c-channel in the front and square tubing in the back. I have had a problem with the c-channel pulling away from the frame 2x now, so hopefully the additional square tubing up front will eliminate this.
    Hammers should have warning labels.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    215
    Quote Originally Posted by boncrshr View Post
    Ok, the verdict is that they seem to work really good. I rode for about 20 minutes yesterday. No chain slap at all, and they stayed tight.

    The other good thing I have realized it that this modification can be done with the frame in the vehicle. We had welded in some crossbracing that we attached the tensioners to in the front of the vehicle. This did not work out very well and now I am using the stock cross braces as a mounting point in the front.

    That being said, IMO, if you have the Hustler frame out for any reason, you should add square tubing cross bracing in the front of the frame. The stock cross braces are c-channel in the front and square tubing in the back. I have had a problem with the c-channel pulling away from the frame 2x now, so hopefully the additional square tubing up front will eliminate this.
    Mine too, scott. When I pulled the frame out it was cracked at the points that the cross bracing butts up to the frame on the front and back. I have seen others cracked at the same place. Glad to see the tensioners worked well, I might adapt them on my machine.
    Chris

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    west virginia
    Posts
    96
    impressed !

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    I live in Shreveport,,Louisiana
    Posts
    3,285

    Hustler automatic chain tensioner video

    CLICK ON THE UTUBE LINK THATS AT THE TOP OF THIS VIDEO AND WATCH IT IN HIGH QUALITY

    Last edited by mudbug3; 07-24-2008 at 02:54 PM.

  10. #20

    Chain Tensioner replacement

    Well we had our first experience with replacing the chain tensioner. My hubby went to the local Orschelons and bought a 15 tooth sprocket and put it on in place of the orignal , it works great. We will be replacing the other one same way. Part cost less than 20.00 so a good deal.

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