I did a search on youtube... "max iv split shifter" and came across a few. One by LarryW, one by CountryCummins, one by buggyman and I think one other. All basically explained what they did but none were step by step instructions. Still, it was enough to get a basic idea how its done.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
I bet if someone put a kit together for this mod it might sell a few especially if the cost wasn't too high. I would buy one.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.
I had another thought on this and hope I am getting the essence of your statement. I looked at the video by LarryW and thought that, if there is room, a guy could modify the shift levers so they come through the same hole in the floor board (bend the new one so that it comes through the floor right next to the existing one). Then, put a handle on the end of each one so that, together, they make a "T" handle. Then they could be shifted together and the lever is easier to grab.
I don't know what a guy would have to do to the floor to get all of this through there. He would probably have to cut a larger hole and then install a cover plate of some kind. I don't know if the convenience would be worth all of that.
That's exactly what I was talking about 'crawler. On the 'Newt project, I have both shift levers off to the right side right next to one another, and I can grab both of them with one hand. I still have to do a little shimmying around to get the shift collars lined up in the transmission, but it's still a ton easier than trying to shift both at once. Obviously the Max II is going to be a little different and you'll probably want to stick to a more aesthetic approach with the floor pan, but it's not a big deal to make the hole in the plastic foot well a little bigger to accommodate both shifters. It's really not a lot of work.
I split the shifter on my Max IV. Most of the time I only need to shift one side into reverse to back up.
If I need to counter rotate, I reverse one side, then forward the other side and use them independently. It puts an awful amount of stress on everything when you try to do a true counter-rotation on hard packed terrain and I find that using both in reverse doesn't happen that often.
rcn11thacr suggested I add my video here to help people find it. So here it is!
Last edited by LarryW; 05-17-2014 at 08:14 AM.
HI
Recovery / tie down Modifications
1/ stainless eye bolts in all 6 axles [the must be able to fit thru rim ]
2/ tow hitch on front of tub
[weld steel plates on front of chassis ,drill holes thru tub and plate on the outside with a tow eye ,seal with silicon ]
tomo
Max II mods was the original topic - good idea too -The T20 split shift can be done many ways and is easy to do and has benefits for sure, especially the easier shifting
Now lets hear some other ideas for improvements to the Max
Skid plates in the front and back - like you see on the Max IV
Trolling motor or prop options - maybe using existing rear axle and gear box or high step up worm drive.
Bilge Pump because we never quite get all things sealed up - somehow that water still sneaks in on you. (mine is a automatic on a float switch )
Drain hose extension out from the T20 and the engine oil- because changing the oil is always messy and hard to get to the drain plug
A simple spring seat ( or a kidney transplant donor on speed dial
As I was surfing through the videos the other day I saw a Max with a twist grip throttle. The guy had installed horizontal grips on his laterals and the twist grip was on the right lateral. It seemed to work really well with the lateral action. I was wondering if any of you have done this recently? What are the things to watch out for?