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It's a piece of cake Boyer. You can just drive the split pins out with a 3/8" diameter drift (or whatever you have). When you put them back in, make sure they're centered in the plunger or they'll gouge up the plunger bore. Tap them in slowly so as not to go to far, in which case you just drive them the whole way through, out the backside and start again.
Well I pulled the transmission apart and all I could find is that the brake plungers were sticking. The drums look good and everything seems intact. I plan on honing the brake shafts before installing o rings and new bands so they work smoothly.
The only way I know to test reverse is to put the diamond shifters in the reverse position, spin the input shaft (driven clutch) and work the plungers with the u channels. If your output sprockets spin backwards then its looking good. Of course, the true test won't come until you drive it. You can't reproduce the same loads in a bench test that you will experience while driving the machine.
just screw a bolt in the top plungers and apply some outward pressure. Under a no load bench test like that, it should only take a little outward pressure to make it work. Of course, there needs to be no pressure on the bottom plungers as these create the breaking action when in reverse. Don't push in on the plungers or you risk pushing it too far into the case and damaging the o-ring.
Yup, pull out on the top plungers. Like dirtdobber says, be extra careful not to let the bottom plungers go into the bore, or you'll be replacing o-rings no matter what. Sometimes the li'l bastards will walk in on themselves. You might want to put a short bolt and an extra big washer on those bottom plungers just to make sure.
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