Belt slip - clutch modification???

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Thread: Belt slip - clutch modification???

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    TUCSON
    Posts
    777
    green spring will hold it in lower gear longer and let the drive clutch pull the vehicle, i think what is happening is that its upshifting too soon and smoking the belt.
    i had a similar issue with the invance set up. went back to the 1190 and 780. works great or MADE IT GREAT AGAIN. hahahaha

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
    Posts
    823
    I watched the video several times and as you revved the throttle I did not see the drive clutch start to close up as the rpms increased. I am betting it came with weights and springs set for a higher engagement then what we use. Also did not see the driven clutch open as it was spinning to slow to open. It looks like the smoke from the belt at the end is because the belt was slipping on the driven too from being too loose.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    Dan,

    The drive clutch was trying to close but it wasn't closing with enough force to bite the belt hard enough to fully engage it - thus the slip and puff of smoke. in a no load situation the drive and driven work together and move as they should.

    I pulled the cover off my drive clutch this morning and found that it has yellow springs with blue rollers and green side cones. According to the QDS engagement chart this arrangement should engage at 1400 rpm's. What engagement RPM do you guys typically use?

    It's entirely possible the slipping condition in the video is driver error. I was stopped in a high torque situation, and to go forward i engaged the laterals and then got into the throttle. Perhaps no arrangement of springs and weights will work when the driven pulley won't spin. I could have engaged the clutches with the laterals in the neutral position and then called for forward motion. I don't drive it like that to avoid undue stress on the chains and bands. ALTHOUGH, I stopped in a high torque situation because it wasn't giving me the torque to get through it in the first place. I was easing across a silted in ditch, slowly.

    I am awaiting a return call from Roy at QDS. I'll share what I learn from him with everyone else. Green spring may be all I need.....and a new belt with a little more tension.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108


    For what it's worth here's the clutch working under a no load situation. When you see the belt stop turning it's because I bumped it into gear.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    I talked to Roy today and here's what he thinks. From what I described to him, he thinks I have a 3 fold problem. First, excessive heat can lead to glazing and belt failure. This may or may not be a contributing factor since I don't know what the temp is in my engine compartment. Second, since my belt is running a little loose it could contribute to heat buildup not to mention a loss in torque ( i knew that part because of the larger effective radius it creates). Third, the further the drive clutch closes the "weaker" the bite on the belt. This has to do with the angle of contact between the roller arms and the metal dome of the clutch as it travels from open to closed. So, because my belt is a little loose I'm losing some of the "bite strength" available when the clutch first begins to close.

    So, I've ordered a new belt (the old one will be a good spare) and I'll squeeze the engine back a little more for belt tension (I'm currently at 2 inches of deflection when I should be at 1). I'll roughen the pulley surfaces, and then give it a try and see how it does. ALTHOUGH.....I"m really interested in what the green spring will do.

    I wish I had a baseline against which to measure my machine's performance. I just might have to make the long journey to Busco so I can see how other machines perform!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    20161103_054052[1].jpg20161103_054120[1].jpg

    I hope these pics show what I'm trying to show. The belt is glazed. I sanded a portion of it so you could see the shiny (glazed) part versus the unglazed part.

    The other pic is the drive clutch surface. You can see the slick portion versus the portion that I have sanded. It will be interesting to see how long the roughed part stays rough.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
    Posts
    823
    Well the green spring is the stock tension on our clutch. On my hustler I installed a red spring which keeps the cvt in lower gear longer and allows a quicker downshift as the red spring is much stiffer then the green. My t-20 chain runs to a large 38 tooth sprocket. So I really need the bottom end torque.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    Thanks Dan. I will probably order the green spring at some point and give it a try. Best I can tell my driven spring is the black one, as it has 7 coils. When I get the new belt on and adjust the tension, I"m going to have someone drive me around while I watch the clutches. I want to see their behavior when the torque demand increases and decreases.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
    Posts
    823
    If you'd like, I can drop my old green spring in a flat rate box and mail it to you to try out. Just pm me a mailing address.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    Dan that's a great offer. I"ll send you a PM. Thanks

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