Belt slip - clutch modification???

[ARGOJIM]

First I'd like to say I misread your post somewhere and ass/u/me/d your speed checking was with 26 inch tires as the factory speed rating of 25 mph is with 26 inch tires and dropping to a 21 will greatly decrease top speed.
If your speed change is with the same tire configuration then the problem exists in either an engine speed deficiency or a drive engagement issue.

I would say it's best to get the no load maximum engine speed set first. The specs on these small motors call for 3600 rpm because they are usually used as stationary power plants for welders ,mowers, irrigation pumps etc. where they run endlessly at full rpm. The difference in top speed at 3600rpm and 4000 rpm is surprisingly large. Argos and Maxs run for years seat at 4000 max.

Philip is right on the money, the factory 3600 rpm setting is impossible to get with the machine under load unless your mechanic wants to bounce across a field at 15mph turned around in the back seat with his hands on the hot engine.

The Argo factory for certain has B&S permission to adjust to the 4000 neutral/unloaded rpm. Think of it this way, your engine is currently set at 3600 in neutral now you put the machine in gear and go across the field and your engine is able to pull 3100-3200 rpm due to the setting and added load of the drivetrain, given your clutches are set to engage from around 1500 rpm and cycle through to 3600 rpm. With the 2000 rpm engagement curve now lessened to a 1500/1600 rpm engagement curve that is almost a 25% loss in useable power and input speed to the transmission and ultimately the wheels, hence speed loss.
So setting the engine at 4000/4100 neutral rpm when your machine is in use it can pull 3500/3600 rpm when on a flat surface, the only time the engine may reach near 4000 rpm is when the machine is held full throttle on a extended down hill run.

Oh I forgot to add this also, most 23's I've seen added to the machines seem to cycle up to about 3200 rpm with the factory settings just from the clutch engagement cycle in neutral, you may also see a slight 2-3mph drop in top end speed just from the red spring.

[Delduck]

I understand new thanks for the input I'm going to have him move the rpm up to 4000

[Canadian_Zuk]

It takes almost 4000 rpm to fully shift these clutches out, I set my max to 4200 RPM.

[Delduck]

The heading explains it. Max4 brand new belt 48 min driving belt ripped to shreds. It squeeled for maybe 3 min before it went, new clutch stuck open. What now?

[ARGOJIM]

As far as the clutch, you can try with one hand on either side squeezing the face closed, be sure to keep any of your skin outside of the opening as it will snap to the open position. If that doesn't work a pair of pry bars carefully will do the same.

[dirtdobber]

Delduck, I have lost track of the machine types. The max IV - is this the same machine we have been discussing regarding the slow ground speed, or is this a different machine?
I think it would be helpful to have some pics of your clutch setup, particularly belt alignment. If you can, take a pic sighting down the belt, through the pulley sheaves, like this:
20160718_211332[1].jpg
Let's see what your alignment looks like.

[Delduck]

I managed to get one picture up in the gallery but that was by luck, I am trying to get some more up. It does make it a lot easier when you can see it. Based on your pic which is a different setup my belt is the opposite, the ribs are down in the clutch housing. It's in 6x6 around the world I think.

[dirtdobber]

As best I can tell from the picture, that alignment is horrible and you can plan on replacing the belt every time!

The following image is taken from the Quality Drive System 2009 Mini Baja Catalog. This will tell your mechanic how to align the two clutches. You may have to pull the engine and modify the mount because it looks waaaay off.

Clutch alignment complimemts of QDS.jpg

[hydromike]

Snap the drive clutch back closed for starters as Jim says. Take out the drive clutch mounting bolt and slide the clutch away from the engine until you achieve the alignment in the above thumbnail. Measure the distance behind the drive clutch and get a couple 1" I.D. washers to space the clutch out from the engine to keep that alignment. If it's more than 3/8" or 1/2", then I'd worry about slotting the engine mount holes to get the alignment.

[Canadian_Zuk]

Yikes, it looks like your drive clutch definately needs to be out a lot more. Follow the diagram Dirtdobber posted for alignment.