Why is very high stick lever pressure needed??

[woodtracs]

I need to learn how to improve my drive system because my transmission drive levers have to be pressed extremely hard forward &or backward even with their 6”x 3/8" bolt vertical extensions which were my first modification to get sufficient leverage. I need to press very hard for maximum power just to move up small hills, and turning etc but a slow level run seems more normal.

The engine is 18hp in my Max-IV but I’m not sure a bigger engine is the solution to lever pressure and it just shredded a drive belt that was an old Arctic cat belt. The transmission was repaired by my dealer maybe only 4 hours of running since, that was due to a rag dropped in the chain breaking a shaft so i doubt the poor drive responsive is from that.

It also doesn't seem like its my home made wood tracks increasing load even if the snowblower weight is a small issue since I have no passengers snow-blowing. When the blower is raised its moderately easy to push or pull as the tracks only drag is the minimal sidewall friction.
The riding up of tracks balances the dropping down track weight when moving so the added track weight cant be it.
The torque on the stock wheels [non small track] should be normal similar to simply driving over a stationary track bed laying on the ground like when i drive on them to install its a normal large wheel drive torque lever arm at each wheel.

To explain how large wheels can remain with a bulky 4" thick track,,,;
I cut the body horizontally raising it 6" to fit the thick wood blocks on track belts under the body. I closed the opening and resealed it with the same rubber used to make the tracks. They were free 16"wide worn smooth modified racer tires.
They go thru 2 sets a season and have to pay to dump them so if you ever need very durable reinforced rubber sheets 16” wide about 60” long its free rugged material to build with and cuts out easy with a matt knife.

To go in reverse i have to stand up facing backwards with full weight on the levers just to move.

Thanks for any help on my lever pressure problem.
woodtracs

[amphibious drew]

Couple of thoughts on this. Did they replace or reline your bands during the rebuild and was this a problem prior to the rebuild? What fluids were used to refill the t-20? Was it just ATF or was limited slip additive used as well? Have you tried draining the fluid and only refill using only atf? If the lining came off the bands, it would be hard to get them to grip being just steel on steel. If too much additive was used, it could cause this issue as well.

[Canadian_Zuk]

Perhaps it may be as simple as the plungers are way out of adjustment. If the T-20 was completely disassembled for the rebuild and then tossed back together without being adjusted properly maybe your sticks are just barely engaging the bands at the end of thier travel.

[Toys4Me]

Sounds like your bands need adjusting.

[Canadian_Zuk]

Also, please post a pic of your machine and your wooden tracks, this has me intrigued. I love bush craft

[woodtracs]

ok thanks, ill check fluid and adjustment based on the youtube video ive seen and hope the bands are ok.
Ill post an image next.

[woodtracs]

This is 3 shots during the build outside in my shade tree garage with first track setting and later install plus ready to go if all 3 belts are happy

[hipowerone]

For my 2 cents: Have you also checked belt adjustment? If the belt is not adjusted properly, you could have low to limited power transfered to the transmission>

[Noel Woods]

Have you checked the springs on the sticks? They may be adjusted too tightly. I prefer light sticks on a t20 machine and typically switch out the springs for a lighter variety garage door spring.