Top of tires always showing floating with a load. Full moose once with some gear. I replaced bearings so often on my other trailers I used plastic. No wear noticeable yet and it's several years old.
Top of tires always showing floating with a load. Full moose once with some gear. I replaced bearings so often on my other trailers I used plastic. No wear noticeable yet and it's several years old.
Thanks for that pic. Those are very nice trailers. Looks like the tub is just barely in the water, mostly tires floating it. I looked on the trailers website, looks like it has the same size tires that I have and weighs 502 lbs. I'm sure it would float a moose with no problem.Originally Posted by bakedalaskan
I knew the tire's added a lot of flotation.
The plastic makes sense, it would be no different than the outer synthetic bearing on the 6x6's. I like it, thats thinking out side the box!
I ordered the 4 hubs off of eBay on tues and Brown showed up yesterday with them. I bored the holes in the walking beam and cut and tacked the spindles in place. Going down to the big city and pick up the aluminum for the tub today. The tin bender said he could bend it up next Saturday.
I have decided to glue the seams on the tub instead of welding them. I can use a thinner gauge alum that way.
I assume you will use panel adhesive with lap points. Will be stronger than the aluminum. My top edge is 1/2" alum pipe I split on the table saw with a jig. I drill holes in bottom edge of pipe so able to use bunjie cords everywhere.
Got to thinking on my way to pick up the alum, that wasn't much of a description I left you with. msafi65 you are spot on! I've been researching this for a while.
I have a Triton alum enclosed trailer that I cut some windows in, the alum skin was glued on. Its been outside since 2002, you cannot separate the skin from the studs.
My neighbor runs a body shop, he said some cars use adhesive for the body panels, once its set you can't get it apart. So thats what I'm going to attempt.
2 ways I have in mind, first is like you described. Bend a 90* lip around the front bottom and back of each side. Glue and use blind pop rivets. Second would be to use 1" alum angle instead of bending the lib, then glue and rivet. I think either way would be strong enough. With a 3/4" lip I would lose that in tub height and lose double that in length, with the angle I lose nothing. Keep in mind I won't be hauling moose or anything heavy, just supplies for a week or two, oh and beer! Looking at 3M 5200 for the adhesive.
I wound up getting .090 aluminum and 1"x 1/8" alum angle just in case.
Would appreciate your thoughts on this
I would use the angle. Bends will be really hard to get a tight fit. the only way I've found to get that panel adhesive to release is heat. haven't used the 3M before but if it gives 60 min cure time it will work. your friend is correct about new vehicles glued together. Box sides on a lot of trucks are held on with this stuff. I screw panels together with small sheet metal screws to set up, then remove and install rivets before cured. With predrilled holes you can just rivet in place and forget it.
Has anyone tried taking a 10-12 foot John boat and attaching the axle and wheels to it. We gave this a thought for moving our equipment across the marsh. We also thought about making the axle fit into a slot with a pin in it so we could remove the axle if we needed to use the boat. Then when done put it back in the carrier and pin it back on.
I would make it so the bracket for the wheels fastened to the top rail of the boat. they could either swing out and lay inside the boat or swing back and lock so there out of the water.
Were thinking alike here, it would be easer to get a tight fit with the angle.
3M 5200 cure time is 7 days. They make a fast cure that sets up in 24 hrs, I was leaning towards the fast cure. Also its a adhesive and sealer. On youtube it looks like the consistency latex calk you would use around the house.
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