kawasaki FD620 Fuel in Oil

[Old Goat]

Having an issue with 99 Conquest with a Kawasaki FD620. It has 453 hrs on it, Had 82 when I bought it 3 years ago. The machine is in very good condition as it was never hurt. Guy bought for his kids to play with around the farm. They put 82 hrs. on it lost interest in it, and parked it.
The first year I had it we had carb and fuel line issues from it sitting for so long. We got that all sorted out. And then I noticed during the second year I was gaining oil on the dip stick. At first I thought it was my imagination, then I realized I was getting gas in the oil. It was about that time I noticed the rear cylinder by the firewall seem to be fouling its spark plug all the time. I changed the coil for that cylinder and the main control module that sits by the brake cylinders. Thinking maybe it was not getting enough power to the plug. Didn't help much. Finally I went to one step hotter plug, that solved the issue. The cylinder just seemed to be running cooler than the front one.
But the fuel in oil issue remained. My way of dealing with it was to monitor it daily and change the oil as soon as I gained about 3/8" on the dip stick or around 3-4 hours of running time.
This past month or so I have really decided to get after this issue and sought local mechanics advice. He thought maybe it was siphoning gas when shut off so I checked the fuel solenoid it seems to be working but I also installed a valve in the fuel line just before the carb, no success. Tore the carb apart cleaned it and checked the float setting and float valve. No success. Had a compression test done. front cylinder is 130, rear 160, normal is 170. Mechanic thinks my cylinders are glazed. Inquired as to my driving habits. States I am not driving it hard enough. Well I live in the bush. I am out daily on bush trails mainly in low range for about a hour or so at a time. I use it more in winter than summer. It gets cool here in winter so when the argo is not in use it is in a heated shop. 75-80' with a nice wood stove. This argo has a good life, it is used but never abused.
Research on the computer has turned up some interesting facts. This fuel in the oil issue appears to be common with FD620's. Kawasaki put out a bulletin back in 2007 on the subject. States it's normal. And is worse in colder temps and to change the oil frequently. And not to let the oil get more than 10% diluted with fuel. Up to 10% dilution will cause no engine problems. Stated also that short periods of operation where the engine may not reach normal operating temps is one of the causes. Well I take short trips at slow speeds but it doesn't take the temp gauge long to hit 180' and at times 200+'. That seems to be normal to me.
So before I start the dreaded procedure of hauling out this engine and having this low compression issue addressed I thought I would seek the advice and experiences of all you fine folks. I am kinda at a loss as to how to proceed from here. Hauling this engine out is not my idea of a fun time. But we will have to do what we have to do as I depend on this machine daily from early fall to late spring. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

[Aahicnow]

Probably not the issue on yours, but mine was from a leaking diaphragm on my mechanical fuel pump. It caused it to leak fuel into the block

[fornarog]

You may want to check your cylinders. If they are not both firing, you could be having fuel sucked back in to the crankcase.

[ARGOJIM]

Try checking adjustment the valves, if they are too tight you may loose a tad of compression. Also there may be a nasty build up on the valves restricting retraction ( sticking valve).

[Nubs]

Probably not the issue on yours, but mine was from a leaking diaphragm on my mechanical fuel pump. It caused it to leak fuel into the block

That's my bet.

[plott hound]

conquest has an electric fuel pump.

That's my bet.

[Nubs]

O', i'll shut up now lol

[ARGOJIM]

O', i'll shut up now lol

Should have let it lay, sounded a if you were betting it wasn't that either knowing the machine did not have one.

[Old Goat]

Fuel pump is original, and as noted is electric. I have looked into how to adjust valves, going to give it a try when I have some more time. Both plugs are firing. The last resort will be pulling this engine out.

Thank you all very much for your thoughts. This will be a long project, I still need the argo up and running for the spring bear hunt. So for now I will try different suggestions and keep changing the oil PRN and get my spring chores done around here. From what I understand thus far I can remove the heads and take a look see at the cylinders and pistons and valves without removing the engine. I have never done this sort of thing before so I am trying to learn as much as I can and go slow, and not have to tear the engine out if it is not necessary. I am retired on a fixed income so taking it to a shop and having them do the necessary repairs at $95 per hour is not an option. Still rather bewildered at this point how this engine at 453 hrs. could have these types of issues. Unless the original owner did something in his 82 hrs. to set this issue up. Regardless a mute point at this time as it needs to fixed.

[rapidroy]

Hey buddy, one old goat to another here, you mentioned going through the fuel system when you first acquired the machine.
Did you perhaps change the fuel pump? These are relatively low pressure pumps approx. 3 psi, if say a 6 psi pump is installed it will lift the float needle and permit excess fuel in the manifold which will richen up the fuel mixture. A rich fuel mixture is akin to driving around with the choke pulled on which could possibly foul the spark plug in one or both cylinders. RR

PS; just noticed you mentioned it is original fuel pump, oh well maybe previous owner changed it or the pressure relief failed, would not hurt to check fuel pressure at the carb just in case...