T-20 problems (teach and coach me please)

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Thread: T-20 problems (teach and coach me please)

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    1,209
    ArgoJim... Thank you for responding. Our Max has splined axles. No shear bolts.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    DirtDobber... Thank you. We will go and readjust the bands today. I seen instructions on Route6x6 site. Time to go read up on it to refresh my memory.

    Question... the instructions are for the "floating" U-channel type. Mine have a pivot bolt (I used Amphibious Drew's instructions to modify mine). Will the fact that mine are pivoted make a difference with these instructions?
    Last edited by Rusty-Gunn; 05-20-2017 at 03:39 PM.
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  3. #13
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    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    I forgot to ask... once the bands wear out, and metal rubs on metal, although in a bath of fluid, is there a squealing sound? Is there some unusual sound that I should be aware of? Thank you
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  4. #14
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    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    What parts do I need to trade out the bands?
    1 - new bands. Is this 2 left and 2 right?
    2 - Full gasket kit (max6x6.com) With thrust washers? Without? (2005 max IV, if it matters)
    3 - what else?
    Thank you
    Last edited by Rusty-Gunn; 05-21-2017 at 12:38 AM.
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kings Mountain, NC
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    As long as your bands aren't broken, it's cheapest to just send them off to get relined. You can do all four bands for about the price of one new band. I think many members are using Transmission Crafters: http://transmissioncrafters.com/ I believe they charge $35 per band. Your transmission is new enough that it should have thrust washers. Before you jump in head first though, be sure to check the simple things like diamond shifters and adjusting the bands.

  6. #16
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    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    Thanks Mike.
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
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    the instructions are for the "floating" U-channel type. Mine have a pivot bolt ....... Will the fact that mine are pivoted make a difference with these instructions?
    It might make a difference. It will depend on how your plungers attach and what they attach to. If you are still using the U-channel with that little channel shaped washer thing under the bolt head, then I believe the instructions will work fine. Those channel shaped washers keep you from over tightening the bands. If your plungers are directly bolted to a popsicle stick then it might make a difference. Let's understand what's going on with the plungers...

    Of course, the plungers are connected to the brake bands in the transmission. When a plunger is pulled outward, it applies the brake and thus directs torque to the output shaft. In theory, if one were to tighten both plunger bolts too much, both bands would be engaged at the same time and your transmission wouldn't work. So, imagine as you drive your machine pushing and pulling on the laterals, as one plunger is pulled out to engage the brake band, the other plunger must be pushed in to disengage the opposite band. And, you want enough "slack" between engagement and disengagement so that both bands can be disengaged at the same time (thus the "neutral" position with the laterals). If you have too much "slack" in the plungers, I guess it's possible you could run out of travel with your laterals before a band becomes engaged.

    Can you post a pic of your setup?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    Dirtdobber... thank you.
    My plungers are indeed U-channel, with the keeps installed. I followed Amphibious Drew's instructions on how to drill/tap a pivot bolt, which works fine. I never did ask if this pivot mod would require "special" adjustment instructions or not at the time.
    What you wrote is making sense in my mind. I've seen Brandon's T20 video how-to regarding disassembly and reassembly, and its making more sense now.
    I have searched more threads here, and youtube videos to learn more. Thank you. And thanks to everyone.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
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    1,456
    Don The noise you are hearing when turning is probably band chatter. It happens when bands and drums get glazed and very slick. Testing for this I stop the vehicle on a fairly steep downhill with the sticks. Just letting enough pressure off sticks to allow movement then stoping again. If I hear any noise that sounds like screech or low groaning it's band noise. Not necessarily bad bands but noisy for some reason. Many times I pull apart and use a green scrub pad on bands to take the shine off the contact surface. Drums get put in lathe and get cleaned with sandpaper until surface is dull grey. Shiny enough to see yourself isn't good for bands to grip on. Another thing to remember is if a T20 will drive forward on both sides and stop both sides to steer , the bands are still working. I'm not saying there good just they aren't broken or out of place. Most reverse problems are from the shift collar not engaging the reverse teeth properly. This can be damaged teeth or collar and shift pin problems.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    Thank you Mark. There wasn 't any unusual sound. I was asking if the bands did wear out to rub metal to metal what sort of sound might it make. More for education purposes here.
    The pins are fine, I checked them both. Ionce I get a bit of free time I'll re-adjust the plunger bolts to tighten up the bands a bit and see if this helps.
    The wife already insists I order new bands/gasket kit anyway. We'll go from here.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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