My thought was same cooling surface area angled across the rear and either pulling or pushing out of rear venting, it may require a fresh air in somewhere though to allow air to pass through compartment and out. Provided the radiators are in line you should be able to run smaller units in series.
Perhaps a custom made unit.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
ouch$$$$Perhaps a custom made unit.
Ultimately what I would like to do, if it all will work right, is run dual ducts from the rh side pulling in fresh air and forcing it through the radiator(s). I'll have to shroud them well. One duct pulling from the side vent, and the other tucked under the cavity in the top and run forward and away from the engine bay. Then, if it will all work out, I want to shroud the exhaust pipe and muffler and mount a fan on it to push air out of the engine bay, through the shroud and out the exhaust vent on the lh side of the machine, just like the original engine cowling did.
20200202_143224.jpg20200203_064644.jpg
Frame will be ready to go to the sandblaster this week. I extended the front of the frame and fashioned some D rings to have a convenient pull/tie down point on the front of the machine.
I haven't decided yet what to do about a radiator. I'll solve that while the frame is getting sandblasted.
Awesome ideas, your hustler makes me want ducks that much more. My wife's already in love with my max ii. I hope he still has it when I can head north, after I get my new chair and a couple things squared away.
DanW
I replaced the two main drive sprockets on the center axle, and I want to share how I did it for the benefit of others.
I bought two "A plate" sprockets, which have a 3/4 inch bore, with the intention of cutting my old sprocket off the tube, boring the new sprocket to the correct size and welding in place. The problem I had was no one locally would bore the sprocket. I bough a 1-5/8 hole saw but it wouldn't work. The sprocket material was way too hard. So, I did the job with a cutting torch, grinder, and digital caliper.
First, I welded three stops against the damaged sprockets. This was to fix its position on the tube. 20200212_055942.jpg
Next, I torch cut the weld as close to the tube as I could without gouging into the tube. Remove the old sprocket and clean up the weld with a grinder.
Next, knowing I needed a 1-5/8 hole, I measured the torch tip and found a perfectly sized circle to use as a guide. I clamped the circle to the sprocket and used a caliper to get it perfectly centered. 20200210_062826.jpg Cut the hole and grind it clean. I slid the new sprocket on the tube and let it lay against the three stops. Measuring from the inside of the sprocket tube to a tooth at 90 degree intervals, I centered the sprocket on the tube and tacked it. 20200212_193320.jpg
Next, I put the sprocket assembly on the axle with the bearings to spin it and see what it looked like. It had a little wobble, but so did the two other factory sprockets. I shimmed the wobble out, put a good preheat on it, and welded it all up. It's going to run good as new.
Some assembly required!
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Putting all this together will feel like real progress.
Nice.
Awaiting the everything new roller picture. Every project has them and that's when you know you are over the hill.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
Making progress. Rolling machine with all 6 wheels bolted on with no intentions of having to take them off anytime soon. I'm in the process of building the wiring harness. Still have lots to do.
20200302_202941.jpg
Nice to be at that point, isn't it?Originally Posted by dirtdobber
That picture has me thinking with the height of the upper body you may get away with removing the fan and raising the radiator slightly, mounting an electric fan sucking fresh outside air and pushing through radiator, perhaps a cradle bracket bolted to the frame for bottom and stabilizer for top mount. You could build an air intake duct, would be no need for inner shroud though you could build.a dog house and suck all engine heat out the other side exhaust vent.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
It is, but I still have a long way to go. The radiator will have to go outside the engine bay. It just won't fit under the engine cover. I did look at a custom radiator but they start at $850. The wiring harness is a slow process because I'm building it "nicer" than is necessary. I'm putting in a fuse/relay box and running components off relays (cooling fan, fuel pump, starter, glow plugs). All soldered joints, a wiring diagram to keep from going crazy with future electrical repairs, temp gauge, oil pressure warning light, alternator warning light, glow plug light, etc.Nice to be at that point, isn't it?
Slowly but surely I'm getting there. This is going to be a very well built machine.
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