Okay, now I'm confused.

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Thread: Okay, now I'm confused.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Copper Country in the U.P. of Michigan
    Posts
    57

    Okay, now I'm confused.

    There are dozens of posts on this site about taking off the front chains when running tracks. I have read them all. My confusion comes from this. I called Richard's Relics today regarding another matter (not chains/tracks) and was told this. Leave the front chains on. That's what an employee there told me. He said that 1/3 of the power was eliminated when removing the front chains. I have been running my tracks without front chains for several years, without issue. I have been having numerous issues with the rear chains when doing this. So, what should I do? Interested in hearing opinions and suggestions from others.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,161
    I think as long as you have enough tractive force without the front chains on you are fine. The front chains wear a lot with tracks and that's why many with Max, Hustlers, Attex, and other similar machines run that way to reduce wear and tear. I've run a Max 2 for many years that way (with tracks) The tracks still turn by the power of the other driven axles.

    I have an Argo Frontier 8x8 with track tuners on the middle axles that negates their power, however with the front and rear axles powered and with tracks, I go anywhere I want to.

    Just take a look at the specs of almost every military tracked vehicle and it's a similar situation, usually there is only one sprocket that turns the tracks (may be the front or the rear) and these vehicles go nearly everywhere. In fact there are some home built AATVs that do the same and just power one axle and the tracks perform just fine.

    In terms of wear and tear, the tracks will shorten the life span on your other chains, bearings and axles. It's just the price we pay for tracks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    328
    I have a max 4 and was told by a member on this site “ the reason your breaking $hit is because of the front chains on rubber tracks, get rid of them” I did this several years ago and that member was correct. I do think it has a lot to do with how you ride or what your doing with the machine, so maybe match your riding area/ situation with some members that have removed them. Good luck

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Fairbanks AK
    Posts
    1,456
    I’ve learned from trial and error that if your running solid rubber tracks you should not run front chains. By experimenting with all three max models with factory tracks they roll and shift better without front chains. With plastic segment tracks and Adair tracks I leave front chains installed and dont get tire slippage in the tracks.

  5. #5
    I have always eliminated the front chains with rubber tracks as well. The reason given to me is tires even new or depending on inflation will have different diameters so the front wheels serve as idlers allowing them to turn without binding as to eliminating binding would need each tire to be and remain identical diameters. Richards Relics sell plastic tracks which are indeed different. The valid point from Richard's and the poster are: without the front wheels pulling too all strain (and there is plenty running rubber tracks) is on the back two axle sets. One issue I did have with the original design on on '03 Max II was I kept breaking the set screws on the middle axle tripple sprocket. I changed bot middle axles to the improved type with snap rings instead of set screw to hold the sprocket in alignment. In short I think with the front chains off it improves rubber track operation but does increase load over rear two axles instead of all three. At one time before my entry into the sport, Max made a tracked Max IV type vehicle that came factory with drive system only on the rear two axles. I have never wanted for traction with the rear two axles only and "I have been everywhere" LOL

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