Borg Warner T-20 Setup

[Mike]

When you guys put a borg warner T-20 into a machine for the first time, how do you adjust everything to start with? I put mine back in the Max after having everything apart for paint (I have the U-bars) and just tried to keep the bolts evenly screwed in. I would turn one a few turns and then the opposite bolt would get turned the same amount.

The adjustment at the sticks was left alone but after finally getting to drive it a few minutes tonight I realized that I will have to go back and adjust a little because you really have to pull back to engage the brakes.

Anyway, the whole point of this thread is to see if there are any tricks to setting up the T 20 to get it just right the first time?

[budresiew]

Brake Band Adjustment – Late Model Method, without adjusting tool.



1 Remove steering return springs from the base of the brake channels (the channels on the front of the transmission). These are located under the battery.

2 Using a large standard screwdriver, pry against the backside of the brake channel and the transmission housing up at the top of the channel moving the brake channel away from the housing (the same as is would move as if you were pulling back on the steering lever). Measure the distance (at the brake band bolt) between the housing and the backside of the channel.

3 Repeat this procedure near the bottom of the same brake channel. Measure the distance at the bottom bolt.

4 The measurement should be equal. Turn in the top or bottom bolt (tightening the bands) until they are equal in measurement. (You will need to remove the hair/cotter pin retaining each bolt). Reinstall the hair/cotter pin or a rod to retain the bolt head in position before each measurement.

5 Repeat the procedure and take note of the measurement.

6 Now, while prying the BOTTOM of the channel away from the housing, measure the distance between the housing and the brake channel at the TOP bolt. This should be about 5/16” less than the measurement taken before. Basically, now that the bands are equal in travel (movement at the bolt in and out) you want the channel to rock back and forth about 5/16”.

7 Repeat this procedure and measure at the bottom bolt while prying the top of the channel away from the housing. Once again, you want 5/16” of travel.

8 Remove the hair/cotter pins and turn the top and/or bottom bolt(s) in or out until the 5/16” difference in measurements is obtained at both top and bottom bolts. Reinstall the hair/cotter pins before each measurement and upon completion.

9 Repeat for the other side of the transmission.

10 Reinstall the return springs.

[hydromike]

Good writeup Bud. (just figured out the backwards "weiser" in your username.. I'm a bit slower...)

I don't see how people can use the sprung-laterals. I had them on my RIM for about a day, and it seemed so counterintuitive. I know that there's the argument that you don't have to "push forward" on the laterals on long rides, saving you from "fatigue" but I don't see it. I can get considerably better "feel" and feedback from the transmission with out having to work against a spring. Some people love them, and to each his/her own. -But with the straight bars (non U channel) and no return springs, it feels so much more precise to me.

~m

[liflod]

I don't see how people can use the sprung-laterals.

It's easier to take a drink with spring loaded laterals. That's the only reason mine are still there. I set my springs very loose so you need to apply pressure when climbing anything.

[hydromike]

It's easier to take a drink with spring loaded laterals.

I figured you for a guy that would use a straw...

[Mike]

Bud, thanks for posting that. I'm going to see just how close I came to that this weekend.

As for the springs, I thought about removing them when I was putting everything back together but when I get it stuck (which I hope is less often with the new tires) I can usually just climb out and press the throttle to get unstuck. Sometimes I have to climb all around the outside of the Max to shift the weight while doing so and I don't know that I could do that without the springs.

However, if I have to do that in reverse I might as well forget it. But I do see how it would probably be more precise without the springs. I may try it just to see. It's not like it's hard to remove them

[Mike]

Well, I was a about a 1/4" off on one of the bolts and a little off the others. I went back and did everything according to that manual excerpt that Bud so kindly posted and the trans feels better than ever. Who knew that following the manufacturer's recommendations would actually turn out so well

I left the body bolted on and just removed the battery. It sure would have been a lot easier to do that the other week when I had the trans out of the Max but even stooped over it wasn't too bad, just a little time consuming.

Thanks again!

[budresiew]

Glad it is working for you. I need to do mine as well one of these days...before ny deer season. I'll pull my tranny for it though...I have the old flat bar style and it is much easier with the tranny out.

Glad I could help out.

[jpswift1]

Hey Bud, you're in Akron? There are a lot of us right near you........Tonawanda, Brockport, Grand Island, Hamburg, Orchard Park, etc. Want to join us for some riding sometime?

[budresiew]

Hey Jpswift1,
I sent you a PM. I would like to get out and do some riding, but I need to get my machine finished first.