Argo axles in a Hustler

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Thread: Argo axles in a Hustler

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    1,470
    My Hustler started out with hubs welded to my axles and after numerous bent axles I went with a hubless axle. The wheel flange is now pinned to a straight piece of chromed 1050 rod stock with a sleeve welded to the wheel hub. Good axle material inexpensive to manufacture. Cut the old axles with about an inch of material sticking out of the hub to center and weld the sleeve on. Pinned the sleeve to the axle the same as the sprockets. Drill two holes through the axle and reduce the diameter of one end to 1" for the inner brg. Good results for the past 6 years running 25" rawhide 3 on 1 3/16 axles.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir
    Posts
    1,059
    Jersy, to what do you attribute your continued success with this setup. Do you think the hub sleeve absorbs and therefore dampens shock to your axles and this helps prevent damage.Or is this material stronger to begin with? What is the length of the sleeves?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central Missouri
    Posts
    177
    Very intersting post here.

    I've just read that the "old" Max bearing flanges will fit the Hustler bearings. What would a guy ask for from Recreatives to get the old flange? Any idea what they run$$$

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir
    Posts
    1,059
    No idea what they cost now but if someone could get the numbers for the flange and bearing then most any large bearing store is able to cross reference them and get you the stuff you want. The store that I bought my Max stuff at also carried sprokets, chain, and flanges and it was a small store. Imagine if you could get your machine set up so that you could buy everything except "hard parts", the stuff that you can only buy from your manufacturer, from a local source. That is where I want to go with this, build what I can and only buy what I must and most of what I buy do it locally! I will try to find the info for the store and get that up. They were very helpful and knowledgeable.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    1,470
    Here is a link for the flange size at Baum Bearing.
    http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/q03.pdf
    BTY The 1050 material used in my axles is 100,000 psi tensile chromed rod used for hydraulic cylinders.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central Missouri
    Posts
    177
    Looks like the 5308581 would be the right one. Is there a way to tell if that is designed for or includes a grease zerk? Thanks

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir
    Posts
    1,059
    Jersey, wouldn't your design make it possible to change the outer bearing without completely removing the axle. Provided of course anti-sieze was used in abundance prior to assembly?

    What do you have to do to bend one of those axles, drive your machine out the back of a cargo plane at 10,000 ft? LOL

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    1,470
    yes it makes bearing replacement easier. Haven't bent an axle in a few years. My skills have improved. Ha, Ha. I bent axles from too much speed and too rough a trail. I think I have slowed down a bit.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir
    Posts
    1,059
    Ain't it funny how a few hours doing repairs that were otherwise unnecessary have a direct effect on throttle control?

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