attex roll bar

[scramblerjohn]

anyone have or can make a roll bar,i want to be save insted of sorry

[wildtexasranger]

As fast as whipper goes and the cars that he jumps he can tell you how to do it right the big boy toy way.LOL

[scramblerjohn]

yes that what i want

[whipper-ag]

Look @ all the different Attex roll bars & decide what you like . The roll bar on my Attex is a little more complex. Check out the roll bar on Hydromike's Attex. He builds a real nice roll bar.Whatever you come up with, try to tie it into the frame. Any roll bar, is better than no roll bar.

[scramblerjohn]

thanks

[hydromike]

Check out the roll bar on Hydromike's Attex. He builds a real nice roll bar.bar.

Thanks Whipper... I appreciate that... I use a bunch of farmer tools to create my cages (along with most everything else I do), but I'm usually happy with the outcome.

I'm helping a friend with a cage now, but it's a long distance help. I'm using one of my bodies and frames as a template for it until he gets the rest of the machine up for final fit.

We've only been in our old farmhouse for a few years, so if I want to create anything at my house, I do it in the old chicken coop. My Dad has most of the fancy tools in his garage, but I don't have a garage yet.. So, this monstrosity was created on a sheet of old plywood in the yard. It's going to need a little more work, but I need the frame to begin tying it together before it really gets beefed. You're looking at $50 worth of steel. I use 21 feet (standard length from my supplier) of 1 1/4" OD "pipe" that's seamed; I'm not positive of the wall thickness. DOM tubing is much fancier, but also about $7/foot. I bend it with my trusty Harbor Freight bender. I've built 3 Attex cages, and at least two full internal Jeep cages with it.

No laughing at my template. I have enough spare parts to get an idea of the clearances for everything...

[hydromike]

I was re-reading Whipper's post, and he has an important point.

I think it's imperative to not only tie the cage into the frame, but for the ultimate in safety, I think it's important to make the cage part of the frame. It adds significantly to the rigidity of the whole machine, and it really reduces the stresses on the frame.

On the D/stock, the front 1" OD tube that goes from frame rail to frame rail was replaced with a solid 1" bar. On every machine I have, this bar is/was broken where the disc brakes bolt through. The front of the machines always see the most abuse as far as landing, bounding, etc., and if you ever have the frame out to weld up a cage, you might-as-well spend the extra hour or two to remove the old tube and tie in a solid bar. The weight you gain is immaterial. The very first time I had the D/stock out for a shakedown run, I bent this solid bar. The cross piece on the very front of the frame broke, which put all of the stress on the bar, which only bent 1/4 of an inch, but that's a heck of a lot.

No she's gusetted (sp?) to the bejesus, and the frame is about as rigid as it can get. Nothing bent the whole time at Ledges, and I really drove it like a rental. The "template" in the above pics will be the next project, and it's frame is going to be stronger yet.

Overbuild it everytime, and you won't even worry about it in the end. The 503 is going to get a new cage once I get the time, too. It's way too dangerous to not be beefed like the D/stock. I took it out last night (fragged a bearing, too... ) for a little bit after a handfull of pills and realized, as I always do, that it needs sufficient upgrades in the safety department (like 30 less hp, a halon system, and a 'chute...)