Looking at the video, I thought the same as Marc.
Looking at the last alignment pic, though, it looks like the crankshaft and t20 shaft aren't parallel, they are leaned in toward each other... one or the other. Also looks like the drive clutch is inboard a little.
What do you guys see?
Roger,
I see what you're talking about. I can easily adjust my motor mount to twist a bit backward. That may take up some of the inboard and help with the issue. I give that a try tomorrow. I don't really have an easy solution to move it more outboard looks like a weld/fill and redrill session may be in my future
Mike
"Don't worry my Dad's a TV repairman, he has an excellent set of tools..I can fix It"
Before you go moving stuff around, look at the input shaft on your transmission, you will notice that it is walking in and out. this is causing the wobble in your belt.
Brushcutter,
There is about 1/4 inch play in the driven in and out. My Max IV has no play but I thought I read somewhere that the older t-20 this was normal so I didn't question it. Could be the problem?
"Don't worry my Dad's a TV repairman, he has an excellent set of tools..I can fix It"
In your video, you will notice the driven pulley moving in/out every time the belt wobbles, Mine moves a little bit, maybe 1/8", but I have never measured to see exactly how much.
Hey Mike,
You may want to use angle iron to align the clutches rather than a flat piece of metal. The flat could be slightly bent and throw you off. I used angle iron and rested it against the right outer edge of the driven clutch (if that makes sense) then on the top of the drive clutch. Once you think you got it right, slap the belt on and do it again to see if the angle iron and belt are parallel. Just a thought..
Mike
old school hustler
02 superhawk
Other than the initial belt failure how does the hustler perform? Is the belt wobble noticeable when you are driving?
Mike thanks for the idea that's a good tip.
Just for my own info on the clutches what should line up? Center-line to center-line that is what I did when I built the engine mount I measured it last night and it seems to line up or be very close
I haven't measured the "toe in" yet as mentioned by Roger but it looks parallel in person I think it may be an product of the picture.
Marc,
I plan on running the machine tomorrow on its wheels and not just revving it static. Maybe it's different under load. I ran it last week and the vehicle ran well but I was adjusting everything and forgot to look at the belt. I just need to get the courage to look backwards at the belt while traveling at a high rate of speed hoping the belt doesn't let go Cause I didn't install the guard so I can see the belt. I'll keep 911 on speed dial...
"Don't worry my Dad's a TV repairman, he has an excellent set of tools..I can fix It"
I had the same problem, I tore the T-20 down and found the the mid plate had worn down causing the the output shaft to move in and out. I did not run it in this condition very long before I replaced the T-20, so I can't say that the belt would come apart, but it can't be good.Originally Posted by brushcutter
http://www.6x6world.com/forums/trans...html#post40532
If you click on this post you'll see what causes the shaft to move in and out.
Did you rebuild the T-20? If not i would atleast sperate the halves, you will be able to see if there is any play in the shaft. Make sure there is a washer between the the mid-plate collar and gear at the end of the shaft
Based on info I read in a snowmobile book my dad had laying around, there should be an offset. The amount depends on clutch brand. I uploaded the diagram from the book and put the offset amount for a salsbury clutches at the top of the picture. It makes sense if you think about how the clutches move.
http://www.6x6world.com/gallery/show...o=6296&cat=661
old school hustler
02 superhawk
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