Forgot the pics....also forgot to take "after" pics.
Forgot the pics....also forgot to take "after" pics.
Wow the winters are long...can't do anything until I get some more fiberglass work done. Anyone know what the minimum temp is to do effective fiberglass work? I have been under the assumption that it needs to be at least 60 degrees F.
Hi:
I know you adjust the amount of hardener in the resin for the temperature, but beyond certain points the strength is compromised. (There's an Ideal strength point and to either direction you are loosing strength) I have re-done the fiberglass/wood stringers in my boat and I think I was actually shooting for around 75? but I'm no expert. You may do best trying a marine supply/repair place, anyone that does fiberglass repair or sells the cloth should know. But it will also vary on the resin you are using, there are different types and I'm sure at least slight differences in workable temperatures as well.
Attex 295 Wild Wolf:My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
I ordered all of my bearings and axle seals this last week. For future reference, here are the part numbers for cross reference:
Axle Oil seal (1605017) - NAPA# 11730, I found them cheapest at Baum Hydraulics for $3.97 each.
1.188" X 1.687" X .250"
Wheel Bearings (1605016) - NAPA# 6206RSJ, I found them cheapest on e-bay through USA Belts and Bearings for $17.09 per 4-pack (ebay listing #370259338420)
1.17" X 2.439" X .629" (Metric - 30mm x 62mm x 16mm)
Primary Drive Shaft End Bearing with Collar(1605044) - NAPA# GRA012RRB. I found them cheapest at Farm and Fleet (mfg# SA 204-12) for $7.99 each.
.748" X 1.84" (Metric 19mm x 46.73mm)
Steering Clutch Bearings (1605061) - R20-2RS I found them cheapest on e-bay through USA Belts and Bearings for $3.59 each (e-bay listing #390076999091)
1.25" X 2.25"
That's some good information to have. Maybe we could have a stickey posted for all of the different part numbers for replacement bearings and seals at the top of each make of AATV section.
"Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"
Tips for replacing the bearings for the steering clutches on the primary drive shaft.
I think the the replacement of the steering clutch bearings is a critical maintenance task on Terra Tigers. I have torn down 4 drive shafts and removing the bearing housing from the male portion of the steering clutch was a difficult task. Keep in mind, that all of mine were all rusty basket cases, so this is a "worst-case scenario".
Before I begin, let me explain that for the life of me, I can not find any purpose for the second bearing in the housing (the one closest to the driven clutch) except as a spacer. I didn't realize this until after I bought all new bearings, but there is no reason that you couldn't use one of your old bearings to fill the space that this bearing does. Even when fully engaged / disengaged, the shaft on the male portion of the steering clutch (#7) does not slide in and out of this bearing. Nevertheless, you still need SOMETHING in that space because that is what the springs press up against. So save yourself a few dollars and use your old bearing (even if it is shot) in place of that inside bearing. The outside bearing slides over the shaft on the male portion of the steering clutch and gets sandwiched between two snap rings - this bearing is critical.
The task of removing the bearing housing from the male portion of the steering clutch assembly (#7) was a difficult task on all 8 that I replaced. Once removed from the shaft itself, the #7 and #16 are essentially one assembly, but they must be seperated in order to replace the bearing.
The first step is to get out your snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring that is between the bearings inside the housing. Once it is out of its' slot, use a needle nose pliers and pull it out. This will require some effort and will almost certainly result in the sacrifice of the snap ring itself. But it is nearly impossible to take these apart with that snap ring in the picture. So get rid of it.
Next, find a socket that is roughly the same diameter as the round edge of the male portion of the steering clutch (#7). Your socket will also need to be skinny enough to fit loosely between the inner races of the bearings that are currently sandwhiched in the housing (#16). For me, it was an 11/16" deep socket.
Then, hold the whole assembly between your fingers like the Mork and Mindy handshake. Rememver "nanu-nanu"? The housing (#16) will be facing up and above your fingers. The male portion of the steering clutch (#7) will be facing down and under your hand. With the socket resting on the surface of the steering clutch shaft, between the bearings and sticking above the top of outside (now top) bearing....start beating the snot out of the socket. The male portion of the steering clutch (#7) will eventually break free from the bearing housing and fall to the floor. You can then press out the bearings and bearing spacer.
Before reassembling, use a dremel tool and clean up the edge of the shaft on the steering clutch shaft (the one that just took a beating). Then press in your new bearing. Before you press the bearing spacer and second spacer in, you need to reassemble the housing and the male portion of the steering clutch. You will now need to find a socket that is big enough to slide OVER the lip edge of the steering clutch shaft yet still rest on the inner race of your bearing. Pounf the bearing and housing down over the shaft until it butts up to the snap ring. You will now be able to replace the second snap ring (the one you sacrificed). Then press on the bearing spacer and the second (inside and useless) bearing.
Voila, you are done. You might check to make sure that the brass/bronze bushings inside the steering clutch half are still good, but other than that, just slip the whole assembly over the drive shaft and make sure it spins very freely.
Here are pics of the snap ring that needs to be extracted and the "Mork and Mindy" grip with the socket in place and ready for a beating..
"Before I begin, let me explain that for the life of me, I can not find any purpose for the second bearing in the housing (the one closest to the driven clutch) except as a spacer"
The 2nd bearing,(inner on each side) rides on the spring that holds tension on the steering clutches. The spring rotates with the shaft. The bearing housing does not. FYI, if you ever need a relacement spring, try a race car valve spring 2" relaxed ht. compressed to 1.25" is 200# of pressure.
Good tip buggyman. Thanks! I put a washer on either side of the spring, but it seems to me that a thrust washer might be a good upgrade. I will chew on it for a while. Thanks for the spring tip. I noticed in you profile that you describe your Terra Tiger as a "money pit". Do you have any lessons that we could learn from? I am gonna do 3 of these at the same time, so I'd love to learn from others mistakes!
Sorry, money pit was the wrong thing to say. Let's rename it a time pit. I bought a basket case, the guy's ad said he had a 5 gal bucket of parts to go with it. I should have just parted it out. It was missing way too much stuff. The body had bad repair done to it also, someone used bondo to fill a hole in the fiberglass. I had to cut out about a 6" square to make sure I got it all. Now I have, all new chain, custom main shaft, driven clutch out of a 71 motoski, custom steering shaft/handlebars, sachs motor(thanks LarryW), custom seats, custom fuel tank.........the list goes on. I need to order brake and throttle cables and one good weekend and it will be done. I will post pictures in detail when its done.
As far as tips, Just make sure you reinforce the axle center bearings, very weak design.
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