ARGO 18IN super track paddles

[Old Tucker]

There has been a lot of talk of tracks and paddles over different post. Most people would like to go the biggest tire posable. On the argo. My conquest is stock with the 22x10x8 tire and I run the 18in plastic track. The paddles I have used made a huge improvement.
Now I was thinking of going down in tire size to give me a little more clearance Adjust the tracks accordingly. By taking out a half link or what ever is needed. Then going to a longer paddle under the tub and even longer on the outer edge. I found that with the rubber paddles they are flexible enough not to cause a rough ride or make it hard to turn. In deep power I have yet to be high centered. the paddles are made out of old conveyor belt and you can get it cheep.
I do find that the plastic track does like to allow the snow to stick to it. I am still working on that [IMG][/IMG]

[spookum]

Do some research in the way of sno-goes, snow machines or snow mobiles, and track desighns. It seems that some paddle is good, but too much is going to make too much drag. 8 new tires are going to be EXPENSIVE. The argo wont have to work so hard to move the track around. Also, with more paddles, you will "trench" aka dig more snow, faster, and it will be harder for the engine to rev up. Could i suggest that you change your drive clutch spring to a stiffer one? It is one of my favorite mods to do to a mountian sled, it seems to make "more power"

[Old Tucker]

[IMG][/IMG]
One more photo of track mod very simple to do.

[smog]

Do some research in the way of sno-goes, snow machines or snow mobiles, and track desighns. It seems that some paddle is good, but too much is going to make too much drag.

sure, it is a very important point for a 120 mph snowmobile.

edit: I will be a complete d!ck and use spookum's statement to say that Adair tracks have very large and wide paddles; so I guess it should be the worst track system ever made

Am I doing it right ?



[/flame_proof_suit_on]

[Castro]

Bahahaha

[Old Tucker]

The one thing I have found Is DO NOT SPIN YOUR TRACK. WHEN YOU ARE SPINNING THE TRACK YOU HAVE NO TRACTION AT ALL AND ALL YOU ARE DOING IS DIGGING A HOLE.
Although some guys like to get the tracks spinning as fast as possible. Why? I guess if you dig your self down to the ground you may get some traction. But if you are on deep snow then go at the pace where the track does not spin. If your Argo will do 120 Then go for it.
The other tracks that seam have large paddles are more open and do not have the same flotation as lets say the more solid style.
I have played with the clutch And it,s not the power issue it,s traction You can have all the power in the world but if you have very little traction what good is it.
The secret is to match the power you have available , to the traction. Without breaking the bank. They do say money will buy anything ALMOST.
Although it can all very so much depending on the snow conditions
Part of the fun is to experiment and see what will work best for you. Then pass the info on.

[Obsessed]

[IMG][/IMG]
One more photo of track mod very simple to do.

Nice Job OT...great improvement...

I agree with your comments on matching traction to power, and i think that spookum's right in that the study of snowmobile tracks (which have done nothing but get larger in lug height and more open in design), it's pretty well proven technology for that performance level of machine...

in my opinion our machines are best compaired to slower snow cats which use huge "open" track designs with massive lugs for the ultimate in deep snow performance in (like you say) "most" snow conditions....but on the other hand thats not to say that they would work well in rough, rocky, or muddy terrain, thats what they build narrower, lower profile, rubber tracks for those challanges (much like smog's max4 which seems to be a beast in the snow, and has really big lugs compaired to other factory rubber track options)

i think that you really did a great job of building something durable and significantly improving the performance of your tracks...if you just add even larger paddles to the outer half of the track then the inner 6" of factory (non agressive) track will keep it up on top of the snow for a long time even as you start to "spin out" and dig in, (and you wont need a smaller set of tires)... i think that the ultimate snow track for these machines has to incorporate both a none agressive profile to keep the machine from digging in and also an agressive paddle part to give it some "bite" when needed....there are two things i have found with tracks, you either need more floation, OR more traction, either one will probably get the job done and enough of one usually can cancel out the need for the other

Great job...now share some cool snow videos please :-)

tim

[smog]

(much like smog's max4 which seems to be a beast in the snow, and has really big lugs compaired to other factory rubber track options)

As Tim said,

I get the very best results at slow speed so the paddles or lugs can grip in the snow packed under the tracks.

Big powerful engines and high track speeds is doing no good in snow unless you are on flat land or on a lake (in my experience)

[twinlakemike]

"I do find that the plastic track does like to allow the snow to stick to it. I am still working on that" Try wiping them down with a little #2 Diesel. It works well on snow plows.

[Slimpickin]

I haven't done mine yet but I'm going to make the rubber paddles a little wider, say 4 X 6 to bolt to the track with two bolts.
Best and cheapest cleats yet. Shouldn't make ity any rougher and they should become more agressive when needed/
Great idea OT.

Slim