hybrid crosser

[garretttpe]

Hi Buzz
Would have said thanks for the info earlier but do to my out of state working and going back to northern Maine due to the floods last week. 4500 gph water coming into my house from the lake I live on, furtunatly my pumps and back up pumps worked as planned. So here we go, Thanks for the information and all the posts
Larry

[Buzz]

no prob larry. Sorry you had to deal with all of that- hope it's all under control. Priorities first you know.
For a rubber track- If you're still planning to use snowmachine belting, I really like the idea of using flat-bar inside the belting (like Mudd-Ox)........only under the tire/guide width area... That way you can keep the rigid part "under the tires only". You will limit any leveraging of the guides caused from the wider/outer part of the track being pushed up. If you do drive over an obstacle that pushes up on the rigid part, the entire tire and machine will move up...not just the outer part of the track trying to tilt/leverage itself and the guides. The outer part can simply fold up/down without any problem and always springs back. It works well on wide tracks anyway. I imagine you'll be using 15-16" snowmachine belting, so you'd probably already planned on keeping any metal no wider than that. Flat bar inside also makes tub clearance a non-issue when thinking about adding angle to the outside.
If you want to make more width/footprint on your track, simply add a bolt-on winter kit to the outside. You'll get traction and additional width that has minimal "leveraging" affect on your main track guides. And you can use taller angle (steel or aluminum) outside of the tub too if wanted for traction. You're not as limited by tub clearance.
This would make a pretty decent winter track.
A few thoughts on flat rubber tracks anyway-

[garretttpe]

Buzz
Thanks again, great points you made. Hopefully I will get a chance to do them soon

Larry

[Buzz]

here's a traction add-on using simple 3/16" flat bar. There is some flexibility in flat bar height and length. You can even drill the holes closer to one edge so that if you want a taller cleat, just simply flip the cleat ends around to have a larger/taller triangle "pick" protruding from the grouser. Pick a nice meaty part of the grouser to through-bolt.

[tbone9]

Wow! Nice work.

[Old Tucker]

I like the way your crossers and tires fit, Nice and snug. Just the way they should be. You will not get the track twisting and flopping around like there is on a more rounded tire. The extra belting on the outside will give you good flotation. Job well done .

[Buzz]

here's a couple avengers I've mounted up recently. Tweaked the grouser profile just a bit for improved tub clearances and small contact patch. 2.5" spacers. 1.5" thick grousers. Every other grouser is drilled for 3/16" flatbar "picks" to be added to the outer half if wanted. Both guys are using track tuners of course.

[Rock Doctor]

Those look good. Nice Top on the second machine too.

RD

[kghills]

Profile looks a lot like the Adair Classic tracks Tim had on the Adair Argo series Frontier at the Swamp Run.


Keith.

[rockrewls]

Nicely done Jeff!!