You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
I am in the process of some fairly extensive modifications to my MAX 4
I have the kawasaki FD750 liquid cooled engine .
I have relocated radiator from the top of engine to be inline with the crankshaft
With the cooling fan directly connected to a stub shaft mounted to the flywheel
The stubshaft is a 2nd hand unit from a john Deere 550, or Toro,made for the kawasaki
Air cooled versions to run a cooling fan
I punctured my radiator backing into a tree branch a year ago, so having the radiator
Mounted lower will protect it.
The other plus is if the air cleaner is shifted lower, you now have a decent size
Cargo storage compartment about 6 inches deep.
Just completed close to 10 hours running time, to see how the cooling mod performed
Initially I had a problem with the overtemp light coming on. Laser temp gun had the inlet manifold adjacent to the overtemp sensor at 95 C , when light came on. But after shutting down engine I could put my finger in the radiator fluid, eg it was barely warm.
Below the manufacturer setup for the radiator
The fan is geared slightly faster to a 1.16 ratio.
But more importantly, the fan blows air past cylinder heads and inlet, being a V engine, some cooling air flow reaches the exhaust.
So when overtemp light came on, looked like my design was flawed
Researched radiator cooling design and changed a few things.
First I insulated the overtemp sensor from exhaust radiated heat with Kevlar exhaust
Tape and high temp silastic and made a heat shield for exhaust out of 16 gauge stainless steel (very challenging to weld with my TIG )
this improved things greatly.
Next I discovered my fan was mounted too far from radiator core, so moved it closer
To 1 inch from radiator core. This is considered the most efficient spacing for fan
These Changes were enough to sort out the cooling system, after a 2 hour run yesterday,
With a fast run on the beach, my temp gage stays between 70 and 75 degrees C.
Laser temp gun shows 61 C out of engine to radiator and 30 C pipe temp after radiator
Cyl head temps 87 to 97 C