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I am looking at building or buying the channel tracks or rubber raised tracks(snowmobile track type if building) I am not looking into a lot of big debate so I will try to explain my riding conditions in hopes you all can direct me into the best all around track for me.
I have a 2000 MAX II, 18 vanguard, red spring, high rev kit, 22 inch raw hide tires.this past spring/summer I completely overhauled the T-20 and the entire machine to include chains, breaks, bearings, and sprockets, and many mods such as reinforced T-20 mounts, split shifter, installed rod end bearings on all shift linkages, horn, tiny tach etc etc.
My driving condition: I live in Northern Maine and my time will be split between snow and no snow. when in the woods I bushwack and drive over 1-2 inch samplings, tall thicket crap and logs. I will encounter the occasional stream/creek and very little mud except after a hard rain and then the 4 wheelers make small mud holes. I have to drive about 1/2 mile on a dirt road to my trail/ bushwack area and once there it expands as far as you want to go. there are some marsh area's that look solid but I will come close to high center when crossing them( almost got stuck once). There are some hills that are whicked steep and all I do is spin the tires going up them as i am trying to go over rotten branches and crap. I have plenty of power but to slippery for the tires to grab.
well the snow can be major or minor as it is this year and when deep can be 2-3 feet and now only 6 inches and ice.
I guess that is about it for the type of driving and area's I go to so any advice on the track for my condition would be awesome. Plus do I need to go to a 21 inch tire and if so would a turf tire be fine for tracks?
I will try to help a little bit. There are a few main attributes of track: open, closed, raised belt, above tire, construction material. Each track has certain traits and combines some of the previous. Closed above tire tracks have the most floatation per width, they also have the most trouble with clearing out debris and need more tension to not slip and not come off. Open raised belt tracks have the least initial floatation and need to sink to the belting to get the full width of the track, this will add traction in soft terrain. Open crossers clean very well and raised belts stay on the easiest. Open crossers ride rougher on hard pack than a closed track and raised belt will give a gear reduction (more power, less speed). Open crosser above tire tracks do not give gear reduction, good cleaning and in between floatation and will ride slightly better on hard pack. Construction material is the final part of the equation. Plastic and HDPE is the lightest but is the most slippery(rock trees, ice). Steel is very tough, a little more weight(sometimes) and have aggressive traction on most surfaces. All Rubber is the heaviest and has good traction on rocks and okay traction on slippery surfaces. I would suggest thinking about which terrain you drive the most or need the most performance (if you need to climb that very steep hill every day that might be the attribute you need to make the most importatnt). I would not hesitate to buy any of the open crosser belted tracks out there, they are all versatile and tough. Also look into what modifications can be done to the tracks after to adapt to different conditions (winter kit, ice pics, ect.), also what accessories you would need or want (tuners, spacers, bearing extensions, ect) There is a lot more to each track and just research time on this site will help, avoid the "this is the best track ever" and pick out the attributes of each track, then pick which suit your needs the best. Price may play into your decision also. Good luck let us know what you get and how you like them.
I have done a fair bit of riding in southern Maine and have used the adair pro series tracks lately have gone up there with just my tires and no problem. The nice thing about the adair tracks is you can add cleats for more traction or extra belting to widen the tracks for snow. They also swim so I can cross water without issue. I've been watching videos of the channel tracks and would consider those if I didn't go with the adair set. I also have argo super tracks but they require more work to set up and I only keep for deep snow. The other thing I like about the adair tracks is just change tires drive on and connect.
I've got Adair pro tracks and the winter extensions. They work amazingly well in mud and snow, but I've had problems with them during the summer and am only using them in the winter now. Ruts will cause them to bind on the tires which eats the sidewalls... or even pinch them right off the tires... and on hard packed hills they offer little or no traction.
If you don't have any or minimal ruts they are the way to go. For winter use you can't beat them.
you can not go wrong with REI rubber tracks, see parts for sale just posted lightly used set for extenders and frame rails included. Your 18 hp is plenty of motor. REI designed these tracks for their machines.
max 2 with 21" tires
Maybe you could post a picture of your clearance above your tire, especially near the muffler. Low profile straight edge if possible.
I am a fan of the Chanels myself. They seem to have a lot of positive atributes going for them (clean out well, don't come off, gear reduction, all terrain and work well with track tuners= less stress on bearings/chains). That Max II looks like it would be a little mud/snow runnin SOB!
buzz
Did you make those yourself?. I think I am convinced to make myself a set of channel tracks and use snowmobile track for my belting which should be good in snow as the cleats are already on the track. How much clearance does your belt have between the tire and the side of the belt? Do you know the best way to bend the channel? I am thinking I need to make a mold and use a hyd press.
Thanks for any info.
Larry
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