T-20

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Thread: T-20

  1. #1

    T-20

    Hi
    I'm looking at a max ii the man that has it says it leaks out of the right side clevis hole and it does not steer right that well because of that. Would a rebuild fix this of does it sound like time for new bands too. Thank you for any help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Pickering, Ontario
    Posts
    633
    A leak will not stop it from steering regardless of where it's leaking from. burnt bands, broken diamond shifter pin, internal damage or out of adjustment plungers/linkages can stop it from steering/moving/braking. Yes, a rebuild will fix anything but cost depends on what's really wrong with it. These are simple transmissions to work on but parts are not the cheapest. Dig deeper or negotiate a price with worst case scenario in mind.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    A rebuild should fix the leak and the poor steering could be worn out bands. Of course, there are always odd scenarios that could exist such as damaged drums (the bands run against the drums), or an elongated or cracked hole in the housing where the plunger passes through to the clevis. There is just a little rubber o-ring that keeps that plunger from leaking.

  4. #4
    Thank you Candian zuk and dirtdobber .I was thanking the same things. It has a new 22 hp predator engine I thank harbor freight sale them he is asking $800 for it. Does that seem like it would be worth it at that price?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    1,108
    I assume you mean $800 for the whole rig, not just for a new engine. The engine alone I think is a $600-$700 purchase at Harbor Freight. If everything else on the machine is in decent shape, and its only the transmission that needs attention, that sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Just check it out as best you can and make sure everything looks good - sprockets, chains, clutches, check the body for holes in the tub, tires, bearings, etc.

  6. #6
    Thank you. It is $800 for the whole rig. He did say there was cracks in the body. I'll look it over and see how it goes. Thank you again for your help

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,049
    Do your homework but for 800 it sounds like a decent deal for the parts alone, ie. engine, trans, tires, roll bar if so equipped etc..

    I won't sell mine for that drivable, and it's a "Turd".

    However there are many different Max II's, early with 40 chain and 3 bolt hubs drum brakes, 2nd gen with 50 chain and newer chain adjusters and most were hollow axles drum brakes, 3rd gen with stiffened frame 50 chain and pinned sprockets with hollow or solid axles drum brakes, short run with solid pinned axles with disk brake and inner bearings, and the latest with splined axles sprockets and inner bearings with square tube frame stiffeners. The upper bodies tell a little at the engine opening have a 6x9? opening on the pre Vtwin machines, the large hood on the v twins and the flat top of the later.


    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

  8. #8
    Thank you. This forum is so much help thank all of you. Would the serial number be able to tell the year of a max?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Pickering, Ontario
    Posts
    633
    Quote Originally Posted by 6x6 rull View Post
    Thank you. This forum is so much help thank all of you. Would the serial number be able to tell the year of a max?
    It would help, there is a sticky in the Max forum with a list of serial numbers by year.


    Here: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/max-a...tml#post207486

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