T20 Input Shaft - what steel is it made of?

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Thread: T20 Input Shaft - what steel is it made of?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    1,209

    T20 Input Shaft - what steel is it made of?

    Rather unusual question, but what steel is the T20 input shaft made of?
    I intend to buy another used shaft, cut the clutch-end off and have it welded to the shaft in our T20 to extend it's length by a few inches or so.
    This isso the clutch won't wobble to death when it comes loose. (Yeah, I use threadlock and new lock washers, but it eventually rattles loose, and wobbles. This happens at the worst possible times, murphy's law.) I don't need a short shaft for easy removal of the clutch, so an extended shaft will work for me.
    I think it would help my welder know what the steel is, so he can weld it properly. Thanks.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Eastern PA
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    I think you should try and figure out what issue is causing the clutch to want to wobble loose. That doesn't seem to be a very common problem with these machines.. May double check the drive and driven alignment. Don't believe welding to that hardened shaft will work out. Needless to say runout would be awlful.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Texas
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    2,156
    I think the problem may be elsewhere. Most of the t20 shafts I have seen have all been secured via a 3/8" x 24 fine thread bolt 3.5-4" long and a keyway. I know of several folks that had the clutch wobble issue or even had the clutch fly off when running. In those situations the issue I saw was that either the key wasn't in the keyway or that the bolt was a course thread instead of the fine. Either way the clutch was not secured to the shaft. I would also use some locktite to make sure it stays in place.
    I believe the shaft material is not high strength steel so it should weld if you have to go that route. That will have to be a precision weld and it might be tough to do as it will have to be balanced. I know that forum member Whipper has a machine shop in Arizona named "Apache Gear." If you need a longer shaft he would be the person to talk with.
    Hope this helps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    I would check the driven bore.


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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    northern Wisconsin
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    You can also check your slider buttons. If one breaks off as they tend to do it will wobble pretty bad. I’ve run into this a lot because the buttons weren’t held in with locktite retaining grade.
    What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Kotzebue, Alaska
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    Thanks for the responces, much appreciated.
    The secondary is/was new last summer, and mounted with the prroper bolt, with locktite, and a new lock washer.
    Several times over the summer the bolt unscrewed itself. When the bold loosens, the clutch is free to slide left and right.
    When it slides too far to the left the key can slip out. At this point the clutch wobbles due to it being mostly off the shaft (which is short to begin with) with barely any support.
    I suppose I didn't use enough locktite.
    Which one do you recommend, blue? Red? Another brand?

    If the shaft must be balanced after precision welding, then its best not to cut/weld them. I have no way to do this.
    Having a custom length made might be costly, so this path is a no-go.
    I think I'll skip this idea and not weld an extension.

    What is the recommended torque this bolt should be tightened to? (I now have a torque wrench.)
    Locktite, which one?
    Thanks fot the help guys.
    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Eastern PA
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    262
    I use blue and have never had a problem. My guess is somewhere in the neighborhood of around 40ftlbs, but you may want to look into that further.

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