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Looking at the Muskateer there is the old spring assist driven clutch on the input shaft. Seized solid, I am assuming one should be able to move the sheaves and compress the spring on the backside a bit, but she's locked up tight.
Best way to remove these? More familiar with Ford engines and using a bolt-on puller or the FomoCo style power steering puller/installer tools for harmonic balancers/pulleys... but this one does not seem to have any place to get a grip to pull it off the shaft.
The clutch is probably on a key in the input shaft. Was there a bolt in the center? If so remove it and start by soaking in and out with pb blaster or some other penitrating oil. May have to pull transmission and support the clutch in a press as close to the shaft as possible and press the shaft out. Another effictive way is remove unit from chassis and stand on end with clutch up. Fill input with oil and let sit a day or two. Have someone hold the weight off by the clutch while driving shaft out with aluminum shaft that is small enough th fit in center of clutch. Post a pic the clutch can probably be dissasembed in a press and cleaned up if the bushing surfaces arnt to badly rusted. Good luck.
Here are some pics. I am assuming the two sheave sides should spring apart if pressed, compressing the spring. Unsure how to test this or if it can be disassembled and fixed, or best to just replace...
Salisbury Torque convertor. I am not sure if the three "dots" on the face pry out to reveal threaded taps for a puller. Didn't want to go levering on it without being sure.
I've never dealt with one of these, but here's what I would try (short of removing the shaft from the transmission):
Unscrew the 3 bolts that pass through the hub, and be very careful as they seem to be holding the spring under tension. Take a turkey foot puller and secure it with those three bolts. As you pull, be careful that you aren't damaging your pulleys or hubs, and make sure the center bolt on the puller isn't damaging the threads in the end of the shaft. Some heat will probably go a long way toward freeing things. Not too hot though, because aluminum will melt before you know it, and you don't want to catch anything on fire. You want your heat applied to the hub, not the shaft. In fact, as you heat it, keep spraying penetrating oil on the shaft to cool it, BUT DON'T SPRAY DIRECTLY INTO A FLAME!! Keep the flame away when you spray. The idea is to expand the hub, not the shaft.
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