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Chain breaker tool and related info requested

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  • locolouie
    replied
    that's what I was thinking, weaken master link

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  • tbone9
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty-Gunn View Post
    Tbone9... I get it now. You're drilling out the plate holes where the master link goes. I misunderstood you. I thought you were drilling the pliars, and I couldn't figure out why. Thanks.
    Been drilling these things out for years and never been a problem until recently when I broke a master link. I think the side plate worked on the c clip until it came apart. Figured I better change my old habits.

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  • Rusty-Gunn
    replied
    Tbone9... I get it now. You're drilling out the plate holes where the master link goes. I misunderstood you. I thought you were drilling the pliars, and I couldn't figure out why. Thanks.

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  • tbone9
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty-Gunn View Post
    Tbone9...what is it you're drilling? With the Avenger we owned last year I had to undo the master link when changing out the bearings but didn't have too much trouble getting the long c-type clip on. It was getting them off is where I struggle.
    Any advice/education will be helpful. Thanks.
    The side plate is made to be pressed on. Especially on a new master link it's tuff to get the side plate on without drilling out the holes a little. This isn't the right way though. The press works good, it gets the side plate on to the right depth leaving enough room for the c clip. Hope this helps.

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  • Rusty-Gunn
    replied
    Tbone9...what is it you're drilling? With the Avenger we owned last year I had to undo the master link when changing out the bearings but didn't have too much trouble getting the long c-type clip on. It was getting them off is where I struggle.
    Any advice/education will be helpful. Thanks.

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  • tbone9
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty-Gunn View Post
    The Bike Master tool I ordered is a c-clamp type made of heat treated tool steel with hardened steel pins. It comes with two sizes of push pins which are interchangable. Folding handle on the.side.
    It does not say anything about grinding pin heads first though. Might be prudent maybe.
    I just got the same one,haven't used it yet. But I also got a chain press and that worked good. I can never get the master link together with a channel locks unless I drill them out a little.

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  • Rusty-Gunn
    replied
    The Bike Master tool I ordered is a c-clamp type made of heat treated tool steel with hardened steel pins. It comes with two sizes of push pins which are interchangable. Folding handle on the.side.
    It does not say anything about grinding pin heads first though. Might be prudent maybe.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dozerlarry
    replied
    I have to agree with Drew too, I've never ground a link either. If you have to have a grinder most chain saw dealers sell a 12 volt grinder to sharpen saw chain with. They are usually high quality and will get into a tight place.

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  • fmints
    replied
    Originally posted by amphibious drew View Post
    I don't know where I got my breaker, but it is a c-clamp style that requires wrenches to turn. Of all the chain I have broken up into sections, never once have I ground down a single pin. If it makes you feel better to do so, I would suggest only doing the side you are pushing from.

    I agree with Drew, I have the same type and I never have to grind off the ends. Grinding the ends is easier if your in the garage at home, but in the field, the c-clamp style will work just fine. Besides, thats what's it made to do!!

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  • Rusty-Gunn
    replied
    Drew... Thank you. I most likely well grind first. I've never removed pins from 530 chains before. Anything to make it successful is a benefit.

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  • amphibious drew
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty-Gunn View Post
    Not to doubt you, but all the info I was able to gather all suggest grinding first. It reduces the chance of breaking the push pin. Unless you know of a very strong one. Thanks.
    I don't know where I got my breaker, but it is a c-clamp style that requires wrenches to turn. Of all the chain I have broken up into sections, never once have I ground down a single pin. If it makes you feel better to do so, I would suggest only doing the side you are pushing from.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty-Gunn
    replied
    Originally posted by amphibious drew View Post
    If your using a chain breaker, you shouldn't have to do any grinding.
    Not to doubt you, but all the info I was able to gather all suggest grinding first. It reduces the chance of breaking the push pin. Unless you know of a very strong one. Thanks.

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  • amphibious drew
    replied
    Originally posted by Rusty-Gunn View Post
    Question on grinding pins... Do I need to grind off one side or both ends? I figure one side but not sure. Thanks.
    If your using a chain breaker, you shouldn't have to do any grinding.

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  • locolouie
    replied
    I got a chain breaker from rollerchainforless.com for I think $25 and its the same as the argo one then went to harbor freight and bought a pair of vice grips for 3 to 5 dollars and made my own chain puller

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  • Rusty-Gunn
    replied
    Question on grinding pins... Do I need to grind off one side or both ends? I figure one side but not sure. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:

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