Was it the ONE and I didn't know it??!!

[Cupwalker]

Cup,

Reading your post number 56, you are talking about two different things, although they are related. ArgoJim noted that "cold air intake" is a phrase commonly used with regard to combustion air - the air drawn into the carburetor. The reason "cold air" is important in the combustion process is because it is more dense than hot air, and the more air/fuel you can put into the cylinder the more power that results. The engine does run better and more efficiently. The combustion air also help cool the engine. So, in this sense, a "cold air intake" would simply be to route the intake to a point that it is drawing air from some place other than the hot engine compartment. To do this, a duct of the same diameter as your carb intake neck (2 inches or so) would be sufficient.

The other cold air intake you are talking about is that of forcing the engine cooling fan (flywheel) to draw fresh air into the engine compartment, rather than recirculating hot air. A simple way to determine the duct size needed is to measure the intake area of the flywheel housing. Let's say it is a 12 inch circle, which yields an area of 113 square inches. The true calculation is much more complex as it involves friction and other factors, but that's way over my head. Provide enough ducts to equal the same area, so in my example of a 12 inch circle you need 9 four inch ducts or 4 six inch ducts. You will also need to shroud the ducts to the engine or it will just recirculate hot air.

I'm familiar with the CAI or cold air intake concept that is commonly associated with an engines combustion process and I've utilized that concept on several occasions over the years in my vehicles. Where I unintentionally created the confusion was, as you stated, when I inadvertently used 'Cold Air Intake' in conjunction with the flywheel fan and its function to distribute air around the engine block. Obviously, much different and a completely separate processes than the air that's drawn in for combustion purposes. The inadvertant use of the term or name cold air intake in conjunction with the flywheel fan and its function was a transposing of terms not a lack of knowledge. However, I admit that I did make a mistake that was attributed to a lack of knowledge. That error was not having a clear understanding that the air drawn in by the flywheel fan is not tied into anything and the air is just distributed around the engine block. Hopefully, that explains the debacle I created lol. Thanks to all that have responded in an effort to eliminate any false statements and misleading info I inadvertently created....Cup

[john swenson]

enjoying the educational info guys ...sounds like maybe a exhaust fan ( i use one ) for drawing out the hot engine compartment air combined with the '' cold air intake "" to the carb may be a good combination somehow . johnboy va.

[dirtdobber]

Cup,

Reading your post number 56, you are talking about two different things, although they are related. ArgoJim noted that "cold air intake" is a phrase commonly used with regard to combustion air - the air drawn into the carburetor. The reason "cold air" is important in the combustion process is because it is more dense than hot air, and the more air/fuel you can put into the cylinder the more power that results. The engine does run better and more efficiently. The combustion air also help cool the engine. So, in this sense, a "cold air intake" would simply be to route the intake to a point that it is drawing air from some place other than the hot engine compartment. To do this, a duct of the same diameter as your carb intake neck (2 inches or so) would be sufficient.

The other cold air intake you are talking about is that of forcing the engine cooling fan (flywheel) to draw fresh air into the engine compartment, rather than recirculating hot air. A simple way to determine the duct size needed is to measure the intake area of the flywheel housing. Let's say it is a 12 inch circle, which yields an area of 113 square inches. The true calculation is much more complex as it involves friction and other factors, but that's way over my head. Provide enough ducts to equal the same area, so in my example of a 12 inch circle you need 9 four inch ducts or 4 six inch ducts. You will also need to shroud the ducts to the engine or it will just recirculate hot air.

[Cupwalker]

Sorry for not being up to date on your thread and replying to it as it's been going for a while now.
Generally speaking in the circle I know a cold air intake generally refers to an air intake system to the combustion system so the 4" would have been fine for that, however you mentioned the flywheel intake later which then through me. The reason i had asked for a picture was to see if your machine had a flat deck upper, a 2003 would so not needed. My Max II has a factory fresh air intake and much like the Argo it is as big as a piece of small to medium trunk duct or wall stack, so no 4" drier vent is not enough, even an 80's Argo had 6 or 8 inch flex duct to feed the single cylinder Tecumseh.
If your intended air intake does not encase the shroud opening your are still pulling air from the engine compartment.

No apology necessary, I forgot to mention earlier that it occurred to me I may have broken a written rule or just a rule of thumb pertaining to Thread etiquette. I should've started a new thread at some point to avoid confusion is what I'm getting at so thats on me. That possibility combined with my limited engine knowledge and associated terminology has really caused a lot of confusion here and to all who read the post and were brave enough lol to respond in an effort to make heads or tails of the mess I created I apologize because that was not my intent....Cup

[ARGOJIM]

My bad for assuming that ppl (if any)who read my posts have sorta followed along and already knew what I bought because the info is in prev posts. My machine is a 2002 (originally thought2003 but was wrong) Max II with a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard 16hp engine. When I say cold air intake I'm referring to a diy add on duct work that funnels, forces, directs etc air into the engine so the engine doesnt draw in the hot air surrounding itself. I wasnt asking for ideas, I know exactly what I want to do. I was simply asking if anyone knew how much air is drawn into the engine via the flywheel so I knew if my sizing was correct. That cant be answered by looking at other people's setups because who knows if their intakes are sized correctly...unless stated in accompanying info that says duct sizing is based on such and such manual or repair book. I also realize that the amount of air drawn in is highly dependent on the rpms at any given point in time. I was just looking for a knowledge based rough estimate or an actual stat from a source I've yet to find. If it draws more air than the 4" semi ridgid dryer vent can deliver then I'll be starving the engine of air and defeating the whole purpose of the intake. Anyway, apologize again for not being clear or specific enuf in my previous post
Thx Cup

Sorry for not being up to date on your thread and replying to it as it's been going for a while now.
Generally speaking in the circle I know a cold air intake generally refers to an air intake system to the combustion system so the 4" would have been fine for that, however you mentioned the flywheel intake later which then through me. The reason i had asked for a picture was to see if your machine had a flat deck upper, a 2003 would so not needed. My Max II has a factory fresh air intake and much like the Argo it is as big as a piece of small to medium trunk duct or wall stack, so no 4" drier vent is not enough, even an 80's Argo had 6 or 8 inch flex duct to feed the single cylinder Tecumseh.
If your intended air intake does not encase the shroud opening your are still pulling air from the engine compartment.

[Cupwalker]

cup .. for my own understanding , is the cold air intake setup for the engine to run cooler , more efficient ? is the engine overheating ? how does it help ? thanks , j.b.

No overheating...not yet anyway, from what I read the idea was to get the coolest air possible to the engine to yes, run more efficiently, aid in overheating issues, lower engine and exhaust temps which in my case would be very beneficial because my muffler and exhaust piping are inside the body. If I remember correctly in some cases it eliminates the need for as much heat shielding and exhaust wrap because the engine runs so much cooler. LOL I'm getting the impression that I may not be understanding what I read and the purpose of its application. Admittedly, I'm not well versed in engines but I am very mechanically inclined or so I thought lol

[john swenson]

cup .. for my own understanding , is the cold air intake setup for the engine to run cooler , more efficient ? is the engine overheating ? how does it help ? thanks , j.b.

[Cupwalker]

If you posted up some pictures of what you bought it would help with some responses. Older IIs did not have fresh air intakes, post 2000 did. Look around the max gallery for ideas.

My bad for assuming that ppl (if any)who read my posts have sorta followed along and already knew what I bought because the info is in prev posts. My machine is a 2002 (originally thought2003 but was wrong) Max II with a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard 16hp engine. When I say cold air intake I'm referring to a diy add on duct work that funnels, forces, directs etc air into the engine so the engine doesnt draw in the hot air surrounding itself. I wasnt asking for ideas, I know exactly what I want to do. I was simply asking if anyone knew how much air is drawn into the engine via the flywheel so I knew if my sizing was correct. That cant be answered by looking at other people's setups because who knows if their intakes are sized correctly...unless stated in accompanying info that says duct sizing is based on such and such manual or repair book. I also realize that the amount of air drawn in is highly dependent on the rpms at any given point in time. I was just looking for a knowledge based rough estimate or an actual stat from a source I've yet to find. If it draws more air than the 4" semi ridgid dryer vent can deliver then I'll be starving the engine of air and defeating the whole purpose of the intake. Anyway, apologize again for not being clear or specific enuf in my previous post
Thx Cup

[ARGOJIM]

If you posted up some pictures of what you bought it would help with some responses. Older IIs did not have fresh air intakes, post 2000 did. Look around the max gallery for ideas.

[Cupwalker]

Definitely too many irons in the fire....
I'm reworking the 1st exhaust sys setup I went with because it was melting the underside of the upper body. I'm adding extra heat shielding and wrapping the exhaust. Also, started assembling a cold air intake out of some stuff I had laying around. Had some fernco fittings, stove pipe parts and a brand new 4" semi ridgid dryer vent pipe. I figured the 4" dryer vent could be the main duct and then it hit me. Wonder how much air is drawn in at the flywheel and would 4" be big enough to supply enough air or is it big enough already?? Tried to find this info in several places with no success. So, if anyone has this info or knows where to get it I'd greatly appreciate it
Thanks Cup

[Cupwalker]

cup ... with the mud type tires tread pattern i have on my max 2 , when i install my tracks the ride is bumpier than just the tires . like going over speed bumps as you said .i have ridden in other members machines with tracks and they were bumpy also . i believe it's the tires bumping between the grousers . now on a solid rubber track the ride may be smoother cause there is no space between grousers. just a few thoughts . as jim said , check the axles also. johnboy va.

Johnboy-
I had a fleeting thought that maybe it could be the tire treads but I wasnt sure how bcuz I've never seen the set up in motion and have no idea what hits what and what doesn't. Just cant relate bcuz of not ever seeing it up close and personal. I'll investigate further and see what I come up with. As always thanks for the advice....Cup

[Cupwalker]

Sounds like a bent axle.

ARGOJIM...I believe you just helped me realize something, that it's time to pull my head out of my @$$ lol!! Just a little bit of self reliance wouldve more than likely led me to the same possibility that you came up with. Eitherway, I'm grateful for the advice so thx again...Cup

[john swenson]

cup ... with the mud type tires tread pattern i have on my max 2 , when i install my tracks the ride is bumpier than just the tires . like going over speed bumps as you said .i have ridden in other members machines with tracks and they were bumpy also . i believe it's the tires bumping between the grousers . now on a solid rubber track the ride may be smoother cause there is no space between grousers. just a few thoughts . as jim said , check the axles also. johnboy va.

[ARGOJIM]

Sounds like a bent axle.

[Cupwalker]

Ive had the factory tracks on now for 3 weeks roughly
and only drove very short distances at 1st as a precaution. During those short runs and since on longer runs I've noticed the machine feels like it has out of round tires. It's almost like I'm driving over a small speed bump but a million in a row. So I tried to even out the air in the tires thinking that was the problem but it wasnt. And I don't know if this would have anything to do with the issue but I did not remove the front chains like some people do. Any ideas out there? Cant find anything on here that talks about what I'm experiencing. If anyone has an idea what might be causing it I'm all ears. Just to be clear, its not obnoxious its subtle but its definitely "there" and the same movement again and again. So experts chime in please
Thx cup