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Was it the ONE and I didn't know it??!!

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtdobber View Post
    Cup, you're talking about John Swenson's machine.
    Yeah, that was my weak attempt at being clever/funny. Tried to put some emojis or whatever they're called at the end to get my point across but fell short. I'm new to this site and dont know anyone but after a few days I put it together that Johnboy was more than likely the same guy in the YouTube videos that the camera guy kept calling by name so I went with it and turns out I was right for once. Lol

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  • dirtdobber
    replied
    Cup, you're talking about John Swenson's machine.

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    If I'm not mistaken in some videos on YouTube theres a guy that put tracks on his Max II and it appears to have some kind of external carriage or suspension system as well?? Not sure what it is so terminology may be a mile off but eithervway I'd like to mimic that setup if I buy the max II. There wouldnt be anyone on this site that could shed some light on my correct or incorrect YouTube observation would there
    Last edited by Cupwalker; 11-19-2019, 09:13 PM.

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    Well my gut was telling me it was worth it but I wasnt sure. Other than comparable sales which I found very few of I had nothing else to go on. Unless there's a resource on here or somewhere else that I'm not aware of then like I said it was use my best judgement. To me it only made sense that it had to be worth $1500. The trans and motor alone have to be worth $600-$800 I'd guess. Thx for the responses they've really helped with the decision making process.

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  • john swenson
    replied
    i think liflod is right . if you have never owned a 6x6 , they may seem alittle..intimidating. but unless the trans is completely shot ( not likely ) or it needs a whole new motor ( does'nt sound like it ) , the rest of repairs ( chain ' sprockets , etc. are not real exspensive unless your doing a total rebuild of everything . just another thought. j.b.

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  • liflod
    replied
    I think $1500 is a really good price for that machine. The 4.5 hour drive sucks, but it sounds like a great deal.

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    I guess the question I need to be asking you guys is, does a machine like this go for much cheaper usually?
    I mean, one that runs and seemingly just needs a little TLC.

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    Originally posted by john swenson View Post
    hey cup ...maybe the guy would take $ 1200 for the machine . make a offer , if you save $200 0r $ 300 you could buy chain , bearings if needed and a motor tuneup and have a nice max 2 . just a thought . j.b.
    Johnboy-
    Funny you should mention that. We must be on the same wavelength bcuz I contacted the seller last night with an offer of $1250 but he didn't bite. I just figured split the difference but that may have been a little greedy on my part idk. Can't blame him for not wanting to come down more bcuz he was originally asking $2000. Eitherway, I appreciate the different perspective. It's helping me iron this out that's for sure. Thx again

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    Originally posted by xbunsenx View Post
    Kohler engines don't like to be cold. They have to warm up a bit before they will idle well. I have had my 2000 Max IV since new and that is how it was new and how it still is now. In warm weather, it does fine when you first start it. When it's colder outside, it definitely needs to warm up before you take it for a ride.
    Xbunsenx-
    Thanks for the heads up I appreciate it. I've been reconsidering my options and that's definitely helpful info moving forward. Thx again!

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  • john swenson
    replied
    hey cup ...maybe the guy would take $ 1200 for the machine . make a offer , if you save $200 0r $ 300 you could buy chain , bearings if needed and a motor tuneup and have a nice max 2 . just a thought . j.b.

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  • xbunsenx
    replied
    Kohler engines don't like to be cold. They have to warm up a bit before they will idle well. I have had my 2000 Max IV since new and that is how it was new and how it still is now. In warm weather, it does fine when you first start it. When it's colder outside, it definitely needs to warm up before you take it for a ride.

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    I'd say the machine ran ok or decent but not spectacular. During the test drive it died at idle one time but started back up. Seller started it the 1st time with choke and squeezed/held the throttle while he looked at me as if to say....see, see how good it starts and runs. I asked him to let go of the throttle and he said...well shes gotta warm up a hair...I said...just for grins let go of the throttle...so he did and it (according to him the machine is a she lol) stayed running but not real strong. He probably held the throttle for a minute or two before releasing it so I'm no engine expert but I'd say that's ok?? I mean, is a really good tune up out of the question heck no but I think the engine is sound. Forgot to answer this from Johnboys post. I did not jack the machine up, I did push on every tire pretty aggressively with my foot which isnt even close to satisfactory as far as checking bearings etc but my elbow situation has me limited. They felt ok with the foot method but again how thorough is that and that also didnt allow for proper inspection of the frame for rust thru. If the
    machine is still available I may reconsider. Would rather have a more updated steering system but with that comes an increase in purchase price so idk. Eitherway, thanks again to both you and Johnboy for the info I greatly appreciate it
    Last edited by Moderator Bob; 11-16-2019, 11:52 PM. Reason: Language

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  • Cupwalker
    replied
    Thx for the quick response. Yes I looked in the tub and at the chains and sprockets. A couple things stood out there were some, not a lot, flat shiny marks on what I would call the crown or high spot of the chain links. To me it indicated wear, even in the slightest amount it still wasn't normal or designed that way. Also, the chains with the shiny spots were the only ones that had a normal appearance. The rest had what I believe was heavy surface rust. The stark contrast between the two seemed odd because all the chains are in the same environment and the two that were normal looking weren't new by any means. Tried the rocking technique, revved it a little, you name it I tried it and it would not go into forward until it was damn good and ready to lol. Tires looked ok, no cracks,checkering, gouges etc. The starter was only a red flag for me because I wasn't sure of its cost per this engine and machine. Assumed it wouldnt be something exotic but I've been burned by my assumptions before lol.
    I'm recovering from elbow surgery so I couldnt get as down and dirty as I normally would which I knew was going to be a hindrance but I didn't want to miss out on what I thought was a good deal.

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  • dirtdobber
    replied
    It's tough for us to say if it was the one. I don't have a max machine, but straddling the steering sticks is normal from what I can tell. it has the T20 transmission which is always difficult to shift. As JB said, rocking the machine is standard procedure as it makes the internal teeth line up for the shift collar. As far as bad gas, if the engine ran good it is a non-issue. Finally, replacing the starter gear shouldn't be a big deal.

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  • john swenson
    replied
    hey buddy ... it's true the way the sticks are set up on a max 2 makes it alittle tight with 2 people ( depending on their size ) . some have modified them for more comfort . did you look in the tub to inspect the chains and sprockets ? also it's good to jack it up so the tires can be wiggled to see how the bearings are and make sure the frame not rusted thru anywhere . normally for shifting it's easier if the driver kinds of '' rocks '' the machine as you are putting in in gear. how were the tires ? if everything was good except maybe the motor needs a starter .. sounds like a fair price . let's see what others say . johnboy va.

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