8x8 axle spacing

[smog]

I tried scaling some different motors to see what fit if you were to extend the frame to the rear. It didn't work out as well as I planned but it sure looks cool with a chopped cage.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5920[/ATTACH]

you need to get a "school bus yellow" top body for this one

[Mike]

I tried scaling some different motors to see what fit if you were to extend the frame to the rear. It didn't work out as well as I planned but it sure looks cool with a chopped cage.

max VI.jpg

[LarryW]

I really dont have much to add here but thought I would say, EYE (Bridget eye) am watching this thread! Great Ideas!!! Looking forward to what comes of it!

[Mike]

See? This is why I pose things to other people. I didn't even think about extending it backward. This would make substantially more sense. The machine would end up being a mid-engine machine with room for storage behind/over the T-20. It'd look like a Mudd Ox, in a way. Which, is awesome.

That idea was all yours. I actually had something a little bit different pictured. Still extend the frame backwards and leave the T20 where it is, but remove that high engine stand and mount the engine on the new addition to the frame, right behind the T20. That way the motor is at the very back of the machine as low as possible and not 12" above the T20 like the stock location. Then start building your rear seat over top of the T20 where the old engine stand used to be.

Your muddox style Max would keep the weight centered more but the rear engine would lower your center of gravity substantially.

I think you might get into trouble with the single speed t20, or burn up belts, if you get in some serious clay/tight spots. A small t20 sprocket and an engine with extended rpm range might be an idea.

Agreed.

[hydromike]

you're absolutely right, Roger.

I wonder if it would be as easy as just stepping the frame up in the end two axles by either making the frame stepped, or just moving the bearings up a 1/2" or so. I don't know how much room there is to play on the frame. I need to actually GET a frame, darnit. Time to swing down to RI. Finding the whole 20 minutes in a work day to make the trip AAAAalll the way down there is a hassle.

(insert Homer Simpson voice) Mmmmmmm..... extended RPMMMMMmmmm raaaaaaaange.....

~m

[Roger S]

If you get into a long 8x8 with agressive tires, it'd be good to have the 4 center axles lower, Avenger style. Or Roger/Response style. The avenger axles are an inch lower, my response is a 1/2 inch, all I could go before the sprockets hit the floor. It makes a big difference in turning effort. I think you might get into trouble with the single speed t20, or burn up belts, if you get in some serious clay/tight spots. A small t20 sprocket and an engine with extended rpm range might be an idea.

Maybe join the two max4's together at a 1 or two degree angle to get the end axles up. I'm glad you're doing this instead of me

We all love this armchair wheelin' designing, though.

[hydromike]

I really want a high HP T20 8x8 with large tires.

Me too! Big 5 is great, and I will continue to upgrade the machine to make it what it needs to be, but I'm limited somewhat by the machine's dimensions, and by my almost complete inability to cut the machine up and make it into what I think a monster 8x8 should be. I contemplate the MAX VI (or VIII... not sure) project, and while it would be a pretty decent undertaking, much of the infrastructure is already there. There's minimal hardware to add that isn't already manufactured by RI. The bodywork is certainly the largest task at hand, but I may even be able to hand the welding of the poly over to a professional if need-be.

...leave the T20 in the frame where it currently sits and just extend the rear of the frame back...

See? This is why I pose things to other people. I didn't even think about extending it backward. This would make substantially more sense. The machine would end up being a mid-engine machine with room for storage behind/over the T-20. It'd look like a Mudd Ox, in a way. Which, is awesome.

~m

[Mike]

I think it's a great idea, especially if you leave the T20 in the frame where it currently sits and just extend the rear of the frame back, making a provision for the motor to sit down low on the frame behind the T20. I have been scouring the web for a trashed Avenger in hopes of doing something similar without all of the skillful bodywork. I have found a few Conquests but I really want that wider spacing on the axles so I can run some tires that are larger than 24". I really want a high HP T20 8x8 with large tires. I thought about a trainer, especially after seeing the way yours turned out, but I really want a beefier frame, axles, etc. Something that I can beat on and not worry about.

I think you should seriously consider making it. I guess that would be a Max VI? Jennifer keeps calling hers (with the single seat) a Max I.

[golpher76]

I don't know too much about these yet and I was looking at the simplicity of the frame on mine and wondering if I could (if I decide to build a new frame) push the front axle forward a bit and the rear axle back a bit and fit me some 25-26" vampires on my maxII. If I do it I'll take pics of the build as I'd like to get a bit more ride height out of it.

[hydromike]

I figured that you could keep the same short spacing between the last three set of axles, and keep the front end perched up a little more forward, like stock. the sketchy part is grafting the frames, I think. The frame and the lower tub would have to be cut about smack-dab in the center between the first and second axle in order to mate up correctly. Steel is steel, though. Lots of places for reenforcement. I think the upper tub could be cut a little differently. I have to get both bodies in front me before I go too far....

[liflod]

The Max IV / RIM uses different axle spacing between the front and center axle and rear and center axle. The rear - center spacing is shorter than the center- front spacing. I think this makes up for the extra weight in the rear.

[lewis]

What a novel idea. You could utilize a Conquest (Argo) frame for equal spacing or move up to a Avenger frame with the center wheels lowered and ability to utilize 25 or 26 tires, could go to the 2010 Avenger frame that will accept the new style bearings with 1.25 axles. Lower the motor off the pedestal and convert to mid engine. There are endless possibilities.

Nice look too!

[hydromike]

Sorry, this is non-8x8 related

No, this is good information! So there's a pretty significant difference between the Attex 25", and the new Frontier's 28+. The fact that I could fit the big Rawhide IIIs on Big 5 was great, and the machine is still relatively small, in my opinion. I love the ride of the 8x8 in a lot of situations, so I began thinking. Honestly, this thinking came about after serendipitously (wow, had to type that slowly...) came about a couple Max IV bodies.

My concern is that I'd be building the Queen Mary, and that it would just be a sideshow attraction, and that it wouldn't have a lot of utility. I don't know that it's been done, or approached before (certainly not by the factory ) but I thought that why couldn't I just:

????

Forgive the 5 minute Photoshop effort...

[Mike]

Sorry, this is non-8x8 related, but on page 11 of that Argo brochure I linked to, I just noticed that the new style 6x6 frontier is showing 57.3" between the centerline of the front and rear axles. That would be 28.6" between axles (if they are equally spaced) which is a lot more than I imagined. Who's going to be the first to put 27" or 28" tires on one?

[Roger S]

What have you got up your sleeve?

hehe my thoughts too.

the pre avenger frontier models are 24"- centers

mudd ox is at least avenger spacing. Early on Matt thought about offering different axle spacing, on request. Might be a big request at this point.