Help identifying my new 6x6

[BrentNewland]

Pulled it into the garage this afternoon and drilled out the rivets I could find holding the top and bottom together. Seems that they put a lot of sealant in the seems, I'm going to have a fun time removing it to separate the top and bottom.

[BrentNewland]

I read on another forum that Winderosa might have a gasket for it, but I'll likely take it to someone else to rebuild. That way it gets done right the first time.

And I've come up with a list of modifications I would like to do (preliminary, of course).

-Drill out the rivets connecting the top and bottom pieces
-Have two large metal "gaskets" made to attach to the seam between the top and bottom pieces, with squares cut out for carriage bolts (to attach them together); I'll out a strip of rubber or something between them when connected so I get a good tight seal that's waterproof; I'll also have a bracket done up to connect to the front of the gaskets so I can make a bumper
-Rubber moulding around all the exposed edges (mainly the engine cover and the piece that is right above my legs)
-Another metal "gasket" to go on the flat top section that curves around the passenger compartment (which I'll call the arm rest) for reinforcement, with removable padding on top (think of the padding they put around the edges of waterbeds). That'll make it more comfortable and provide more protection against damage
-Cover engine compartment - engine cover, sides, bottom, everything - with some sort of insulation (like http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/th...er_index.php); maybe paint engine, not sure if that's a good idea or not- opinions?
-Reconnect the two floor panel pieces - broken in half right now - and strengthen with metal brackets (probably between the mounting holes); spray floor panel with truck bed liner
-New seat with marine plywood (special plywood that's mostly waterproof)
-Filters on all the vents
-Replace the single light on the top front with two new ones
-Turn signals
-Brake lights
-Cup holders
-Cigarette Lighter Sockets
-Fuse box with master cutoff switch (maybe breaker box if I can find one)
-Engine bay light
-Hydraulic lift for engine cover, engine cover lock
-Locking gas cap
-New ignition switch
-Metal chain covers
-Gauges (gas, tach, run time, altitude/level, speedometer, battery, temperature) - what kind of speedos are available? Since the wheels are driven by chains, could a gear driven speed sensor be used? This page: Corbin Speedometer Drivelines shows what I'm talking about

[bigmandengo]

The model of the engine is a type 401. They were only made from 69-72 so all the parts should be the same. I dont know if parts are available for that engine anymore, but if you have decent compression, maybe points, condensers and a diaphragm set for the carb will get you running.

Tillotson Carburetor Parts

[BrentNewland]

Alright, it's finally back home and in my driveway! (went and sprayed it out before getting it home, so it's still a bit wet). The engine is a 399 cc Rotax engine (have the tag available to look at, but I'm pooped - don't want to go outside to look until I go to have a smoke). Anyone know which Rotax model that would be? And if there's a rebuild kit available?

The body is in pretty rough shape, I think I'm going to have to gut it so I can work on the body. Although the axles turn alright (not that alright with flat tires) I'm sure they're rusted inside, so I'll have to figure out how to get those apart and rebuild them (and where to find seals and what not).

One question, was this intended to have two rows of seats? It almost looks like it, and my uncle suggested putting a single bucket up front and a bench in the back (not a real fan of that idea, but two benches might be nice - but pushing the weight limit a LOT).

[jerbear]

Hey Brent

Good luck with gettin' her goin' again. I like the old Chap's body style. Very cool machine.

[LarryW]

You may like this site!!!

Terry's Chaparral

[LarryW]

Going to pick it up tomorrow, just after noon. Does anyone have the dimensions (width and length) and approx. weight of one of these machines? My uncle has an ATV trailer and a winch we're using, want to make sure it's large enough.

Thats cool!!!

I found dimensions at Length 96" and Width 55" wheelbase 54" and weight 550lb.

[BrentNewland]

Going to pick it up tomorrow, just after noon. Does anyone have the dimensions (width and length) and approx. weight of one of these machines? My uncle has an ATV trailer and a winch we're using, want to make sure it's large enough.

[mike d]

golf course tires

Congrats on the machine. Chaps are pretty cool looking. These being skid steer machines probably won't be welcome on the links. That being said Carlisle Power Trek 2s are reasonable. Pretty good in the water and a little bit rough on grass. I believe the bodies are made out of ABS plastic so fiberglass won't stick to them for very long. Good Luck and post pics of the restore. Later Mike D

[BrentNewland]

Alright, it's still up there and I got new pics! Please take a look at them, tell me how bad it looks, and if you can eek out any more info before I bring it home on saturday that'd be great!

What kind of work will that engine/tranny need? It may have been sitting anywhere from 10 to 30 years.

*Whoops* forgot the pics. They're at my Photobucket page (amphib pictures by BrentNewland - Photobucket) (originals are 5MB a piece, find them at Index of /6x6/)

And I didn't realise, but picture 28 has a manufacturing plate. That side of the amphib is overgrown so I didn't notice it or I would have gotten a better picture.

[BrentNewland]

All the way in Western Colorado.

This might be more suited for the tire forums, but I have been reading aroudn and keep seeing people mention Matt O's beadlock tires. Would those work on this machine, and if so does anyone know how much they are for a set?

[Don]

You could do this on a budget if you made your own adapters from Mike's template and bought used parts for the rest. If you make your own, you need to make sure that the hole circles are concentric and any gussets you weld on are straight (I made a couple sets and they're pretty straight). Any tire you run on pavement a lot will wear very quickly, but if you get an old set the first time it won't cost you so much.

Where are you located? If you're close enough I may be able to set you up with a used set of rims and really junky tires.

[LarryW]

I personally went 4" 4 lug adapters. Then you can get 8" golf cart rims cheap and plentiful.

Keep us update, Im looking forward to see this thing run.

[Mike]

I would definitely get them machined if you can. Best part is, we have PDF's of the dimensions right here on the site: http://www.6x6world.com/forums/gener...-template.html

[BrentNewland]

Looking for a universal tire, something decent in the water but I can also take to the golf course (I want to fit this out as a golf cart/offroader). I also don't want to worry about them getting ripped up by rocks.

I see they sell a three lug to 5 lug adapter at Welcome to Richard's Relics Parts for ATV's but it seems very basic and simple. Think I could get a set cut and drilled locally that would work fine? I imagine if I do it would come well under $150.

As for the tires, since this will be the first set and I need to buy rims as well, I'd like to keep them affordable. While I could go out and spend $800 on a set, I would rather not. If I could get a set of tires that are cheaper and can at least get me on paved road, water, gravel, and the golf course I could get the whole thing finished faster and worry about high end tires later.