I believe the earlier pic was of a set build by Adair. I'm trying a couple different variations of this experiment all based upon the Escargo design. I've been meaning to do it for some time, but I'm not the first. It's very labor intensive but should make for a good compromise, I think. The biggest difference is that the steel insert will be 3/16" steel flatbar that is embedded very deep into the crosser. It will then have through-and-through bolts sandwiching it tight. So it should be extremely well supported with very good wall-thickness on either side of the steel and won't have to rely on a threaded "bite" into UHMW. Definitely not something you can just throw together quick, but it's another option that's worth some longer term use/abuse. I'm going to try some in 1.5" thick repro and also the same thickness in a higher grade just to see if there's any difference, benefits/drawbacks that are really necessary or need to be overcome to justify the price. I believe Spookum's steel insert will have more of an ulu shape unlike the diagram-picture. Hmmm...escargo ulu track
So. Thanks to Buzz we hit upon the idea of plastic with steel inserted into it. A "classic" track desighn.
Note the flat edges where the bolt holes stick up. This should assist inna biting edge for driving out of ruts, and up brush. Pointy grade 8 1/4" bolts should really help the outside of the track profile grab. The overall extra 2" of added ground clearence will be super nice, along with the gear reduction of the machine. Here they are without further adue.
Bottom
Side
Notice the slot all the way across the top:
I think the original plan was to have it not extend out all the way, but now I guess I could bake it shapes like an ulu knife
It would be neat to have "ulu" tracks. Would the extra weight be worth it? (Pretend the wood is plastic crosser)
And I went with a "classic" escargo desighn built in state for cheap and easy! 1" thick hdpe and steel insert 1/4 thick. 4" to 4.5" in on center. Should be able to be mounted on the old Argo for 2k... Maybe less .
1.5" hdpe with a 1/2" of steel on top of that..... 18" wide + rubber belting will yield about a 22" wide track for alaska.... Until I add a winter track kit!
Thanks guys, I WILL BE fabbing up snow tracs.... I have we'll over 400" of 3" paddle "Mavric" tracks for the snow (stay tuned... Cheap and easy tire guides for all I say). I think I'm going to end up selling a snow machine, and would like an open dialog about track designs. For the other three months out of the year..... I will run in swamp of course, like what rock Dr. Runs in. But I'll also be in tussocks hip deep, thick nasty alders and steep gravely hills where side hill traction is a must...... And I still have to swim!
You might want to contact Matt at Mudd-Ox. The Mudd-Ox model GT and XL are making more horsepower and a lot more torque and run 4000RPM. I would think any track that holds up on a Mudd-Ox could take the extra mile per hour you may be able to obtain with your machine with ease.
I think that if you have access to various materials and tools then you should try experimenting....only you really know the country that you want to take your BEAST into....At 55hp with that geo metro engine you have one seroiuus machine there.
Another reason to build your own is that it may offer others another source for tracks.....
What Tracks for a 55hp@5500rpm 3 bearing per axle beast for swamps, steep rock?
Ok guys, my 8 wheeled Argo isn't really an Argo anymore, and like the title says, has 55 hp at 5500 rpm and 3 bearing per axle. With a common intagrated wheel bearing extension on EVERY axle she has become kind of *ahem* heavy set. What track will work best for alaska? NO SNOW THOUGH.... I think that I need two tracks.... One for snow and one for the other 3 months lol. Adairs (who I love) or escargo, or build my own
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