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Shimming Clutches

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  • Rock Doctor
    replied
    Originally posted by crowhater View Post
    RD
    Do you know if the stroke is the same on the 27hp or 29hp as the 20hp Kaw? In other words has anyone ever looked into just changing the stroke on the 20hp Kaw to gain more displacement? I love to stroke engines, both of my vets are stroked ( 383, 416 ) and my airboat has a 500 Cadillac engine stroked to 530ci.
    The 27 and 29 are the same engine, I believe, but the 20 is noticably smaller. You might be able to stroke the 20, but you might run into cooling problems if you do. Just a thought.

    It took a little looking, but I found schematics for all 3 engines on line, back when I was researching this project. I don't have those sights favorited anymore though.

    RD

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  • LarryW
    replied
    Thanks for the updates, glad you got the power back.

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  • crowhater
    replied
    Lord what a difference! I put a shim between the spring on the primary clutch and I turned the centers of the weights around. One side of the center of the weights was smashed flat from sliding against the drum so I turned that side down away from the drum. High gear now pulls as hard as low gear and I can turn with ease, it almost feels like you are slipping the tracks on the pavement when you take off. Another added benefit I discovered is you are able to raise you idle rpm a little and you can still shift gears without grinding. Now at idle I can even have the lights on without the 12v light on the dash coming on. I also found my lost top end speed, it is still slower that it was with tires though.


    RC
    Do you know if the stroke is the same on the 27hp or 29hp as the 20hp Kaw? In other words has anyone ever looked into just changing the stroke on the 20hp Kaw to gain more displacement? I love to stroke engines, both of my vets are stroked ( 383, 416 ) and my airboat has a 500 Cadillac engine stroked to 530ci.

    Leave a comment:


  • coosaridgerider
    replied
    Call airdam cluthes.com They may be able to help.They are located in vicksburg Miss.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rock Doctor
    replied
    Originally posted by crowhater View Post
    After instlling my Adair tracks my Conquest really labors in high gear and lost a great deal of top end. What about shaving weight off the primary clutch weights? Is the 27hp Kaw really worth the money for 7 HP? I read it is a direct replacement and takes a couple hours to do the swap. My 20hp only has 60 hours on it.
    Shaving weight off the Primary weights has a similar effect to shimming the Spring (I have NOT tried shaving the weights, it's hard to put shavings back on if you decide you went too far)
    The 27hp IS really worth it IMHO. 30% power increase is nice (another option is the Fuel Injected 29hp)
    It is NOT a direct replacement. The engine mount needs slight modifications, the Crank Shaft needs about 5/8" cut off, and the "Step" in the Crankshafts are different (Stock 20hp is a squared off step and the 27 is a Radius Step. I just slightly modified the mating surface on the clutch to match the step in the shaft with a dremel)
    It took me 2 hrs to pull the stock engine, and 3 hrs to install the 27hp engine.

    There is a guy on YouTube that made videos of his upgrade to the 29hp. Guitarhack42 is his user name. Nice guy, if you contact him, tell him "Grizzly Adams" sent you.

    Here is his vid one of the swap

    RD

    Leave a comment:


  • crowhater
    replied
    Down here they sell it at Academy but I still order mine either direct or off EBay.


    Thanks Rock Doc! I was not talking about moving the clutches away from the engine or alignment. After instlling my Adair tracks my Conquest really labors in high gear and lost a great deal of top end. What about shaving weight off the primary clutch weights? Is the 27hp Kaw really worth the money for 7 HP? I read it is a direct replacement and takes a couple hours to do the swap. My 20hp only has 60 hours on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rock Doctor
    replied
    Originally posted by crowhater View Post
    I have a 2000 conquest with a 20hp law and Adair tracks

    Now for my question! What does shimming the primary clutch do for you? How do you remove the primary clutch? Do you also shim the secondary clutch and if so how do you remove it?
    Hi Crowhater,
    Right or wrong, I have a couple thoughts here, and they depend on your referance to "Shimming"
    Primary Clutch- The clutch itself can be moved away from the engine a bit with shims. Like CRR mentioned to align your belt. OR. The Spring in the Primary clutch can have a shim placed under it to increase your spring pre-load. This will increase the RPM where your Primary will engage. Care must be taken with this, only ONE shim can be placed in there and it can not excede the thickness of the wire that the spring is made of. Too thick of a shim will "coil bind" the clutch. What I use is a piece of welding rod (1/8"), rolled into a circle the same diameter as the Primary Spring coil. Drop it under the Primary Spring and put the clutch together. I have a vid showing this.
    The Primary clutch has a Hex Head bolt through it into the end of the Crank Shaft (I think it's a 12mm hex). Back off the bolt and slide the clutch off the shaft.
    Secondary Clutch- Can also be shimmed to align to the Primary. OR. Shims can be placed between the clutch halves. This will set the distance between the clutch halves while at rest, raising or lowering the belt in the clutch slightly.
    Last question? How do you remove the secondary clutch or how do you remove the shim?
    Clutch has a bolt through it into the end of the trans input shaft. Pull bolt to remove clutch.
    Secondary Clutch has a Snapring holding it together. Rotate the clutch halves a bit to put a little more tension on the spring. Tap the Helix down a bit to take pressure off Snapring. HOLD everything together, (This is easier if you have 3 hands), pull the Snapring. Carefully allow the clutch faces to rotate back, so the slider buttons push on the Helix Ramps. The slider buttons will push the Helix up and off the shaft. I have a vid of this process as well. CAUTION, this clutch WANTS to fly apart once the Snapring is removed.
    There are a # of holes that the Secondary Spring can be placed in. Stock position is hole 3. I like to run in hole1 which is a HIGHER preload. In this position the Secondary will Upshift Slower and Backshift Faster

    Hope that helps

    RD

    Leave a comment:


  • LarryW
    replied
    coosaridgerider, I bet the shim your talking about holds the clutch apart more. This will allow you to run a wider belt if secondary clutch will accept it and it will take a little bit more rev to get it to engage. That will in a way gear the whole thing down a little vs engine rpm. I had a little comet 40 clutch I used a wire on the inside of it to hold it a little further apart to run a wider belt.

    One the secondary clutch I also did the same thing but you can just use a wire or a C clip on the shaft between the pulley faces to hold them apart. You do that to run a tad wider belt. That will actually decrease performance on a normal width belt so dont do it unless your upping your belts width.

    Leave a comment:


  • coosaridgerider
    replied
    Shims are used behind the clutch to align the belt.I have heard of people using a plastic shim in the clutch to make it perform like it had a shift kit in it.A guy that rides a local creek did this to a polaris sportsman.He said he cut the shim out of a plastic milk jug and put it inside the clutch but i'm not sure where it goes in the clutch.The next time i go down to the creek i will find out.

    Leave a comment:


  • azz7772
    replied
    is that product only available on line or do any store chains sell it?

    Leave a comment:


  • crowhater
    started a topic Shimming Clutches

    Shimming Clutches

    I have a 2000 conquest with a 20hp law and Adair tracks. What does shimming the primary clutch do for you? How do you remove the primary clutch? Do you also shim the secondary clutch and if so how do you remove it?

    Now for the new product:



    HD



    At the coast in Texas we have used a product called ( Corrision X ). This is the best stuff I have ever seen and I have used it on all marine applications for years. The standard spray is in a red can and it goes on thin. If you go to the Corrision X web site you can read all the specs but in short it lives up to the hype. A standard duck hunt at the coast and your shotgun and shell brass are rusting by midday not to mention the engine on your airboat. We have tried everything over the years to combat this problem and when I switched to this product years ago it changed the game. I can hunt all weekend and never touch my shotgun and it does not matter if I drop it in the salt water. My airboat cost as much as my new corvette and I no longer have any corrosion problem on the engine or electronics. When I first came across this product it was at a boat show in Houston and they had a TV in a fish tank full of it showing the product.

    The other product that should interest us is the Corrision X HD! This stuff sprays on thick like syrup and does not sling off. A standard set of non galvanized leaf springs on a trailer will last at best two years at the coast and the exposed portion of your wheel studs will get covered in rust in a month making wheel removal a PIA. Once I used the HD on these areas I no longer had any rust issue at all and the product does not wash off even if you pressure wash the area. I took a can of HD and sprayed the chains on my Argo about a month ago and it is still on the chains and they still look great.

    One of the things about this stuff is if it gets scratched away from a metal surface it will spread back out to cover the surface again. If your spray it on a vertical cable it will actually go up the cable until it spreads out to the correct thickness. They have put their product up against all the other stuff and it beats them hands down! I will attach a link so you guys can check it out.
    Last edited by Mike; 06-03-2012, 09:33 PM. Reason: moved thread to transmission forum and moved question to top of thread. Renamed thread something more descriptive
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