took the hustler out this weekend and got embarssed by some atvs ,we crossed a creek and you had to climb a 4 foot sand bank to get out ,the 6 got up the hill and high centered after the tires where just digging in the sand and whats the deal with the split shifter set up? this thing is a pain in the arse to shift ,I ve made many adjustments to the linkage and I just cant get it right,is there a secret Im missing?
The split shift just puts a lever on each side instead of on lever for both sides. It may make it easier with 1/2 the effort times 2, instead of all effort at once. Hopefully someone chimes in for the adjustments and linkage questions.Originally Posted by kestianj
Kestian, what exactly is it doing or not doing? Are you "neutraling" the sticks before trying to shift? By that I mean moving the sticks to about the center of their travel, and then trying to shift, at idle. Do you have "easy shifters"? I am not familiar with your setup, but I would think that if you have enough travel in your shifter, in each direction then adjustment wouldn't be a major issue, but as I said I am not familiar with what setup you have.
I have the stock twin shifter set up , with the two shifters under the seat with two seperate cables running back to the two diamonds on the tranny and I have busted two cables already trying to shift it from F to R its just extremly hard to move the diamond things from neutrel, reverse or forward , I changed the fluids with the atf during the machine rebuild and the tranny seems to operate just fine except for that part.....
Could you get some pics up?... might help.I was hoping that someone with expertise would weigh in on this, but hey I can guess as good as anybody here.
I like to have the wheels off the ground while doing this kind of investigation, that way you can roll the tires which will aid in shifting. Then try to shift each side and watch what the diamonds do. Are they trying to swing toward the trans or pull out/away from it? Check to be sure the cables are lined up right. Keed in mind that the attachment points on the diamond plates actually describe or travel in an arc as they are moved from f to n to r and if the shifter does not allow for this then it will cause binding and be hard to shift. If this is the case can you move them so that they will pull the diamonds out from the tranny- but only slightly because if you go to far then that will(or may)not let them swing back in far enough to re-engage.
If that doesn't do it then:
Try disconnecting the cables from the diamonds, then try to move the diamonds by hand, they should move fairly easily, sometimes you have to roll the tires forward or backward to get the teeth to line up, so it will shift. If you can't move them, then pull the diamonds and check the pins, They may be bent or damaged. But I think your trouble is probably in the cable allignment.
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, I hope this helps.
I'm really sleepy and I hope this ain't one of those posts I read tomorrow and say what the hell was I trying to tell this guy!
Ya' know that was the only thing I did not like about Sandcassle's Hustler. The early model shifters with cables were not so good. If yours is like Sandcassle's, then you do not have the spring assisted shift like the later model ones. Also, Sandcassle's did not have the diamond shifter hold-downs like mine. I would be very tempted if I were you to see if you could convert yours to the later model shifter set-up. It would not be too hard, and at 50 bucks per shift cable, it could save you some money in the long run.
NOTE: While those early split shifter Hustler's have an inferior shifting set-up, what is weird to me is that the drive chain tensioners are far superior than the later model like mine. I wonder why they downgraded in the later models??
EDIT: I don't think Kestian is doing anything wrong or his T-20 is malfunctioning....Sandcassle's Hustler is PRISTINE and his was doing the same thing. IMO, it is a combination of no spring assist and lack of diamond shifter hold downs. It just allows too many variables for things to go slightly wrong when shifting.
Last edited by boncrshr; 05-05-2009 at 11:50 AM.
Hammers should have warning labels.
thers no springs anywhere so I guess that its the old setup , anyone have a pic of a newer setup?
Hey Kestian,
I will try to remember and snap some pics tonight. Would you do me a huge favor and take some pics of your chain tensioners that tension the drive chain coming off of the T-20?? Sandcassle was supposed to but he is falling down on the job
For laughs I will show you my set-up. I have no idea why they got away from those early style tensioners...
Hammers should have warning labels.
Has anyone converted from old cable style to the newer linkage style, but keeping the split shiftting capabilities? I am having trouble with my cables binding as it turns up between the front of the motor and the T-20 from the rear. It looks like it would be better to connect to the T-20 from the front with the spring assist linkage. I feel like you should be able to attach to the orignal shift levers with some typle of linkage to keep the splitting capabilities, but any input would be great. Thanks.
Reference to the husler getting stuck- There are certain areas where four wheelers have the advantage and one on them is climbing sandy hills where momentum is your friend. Turn that into a muddy slope and the advantage is yours. You can't win the game always. One of the ways to keep from getting high centered at the top is to back off the throtle just before you get to the top so you don't dig in. Half of driving any atv is technique. You'll get it! Reference the split shifter, it allows you to counter rotate your tires, once you get it sorted out you find it's a life saver. If you could have counter rotated you could have spun right out of that high center and not been stuck, stay with it, figure out how it works and then use it!
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