1983 Hustler 950 V-twin transplant

[Stonewall]

Well I decided it was in my best intrest to go with a Briggs Vanguard instead of the Kohler Command that I had planned to use. I ordered a new (warrantied ) 21 HP Vanguard, and got it today. Tomorrow will be spent getting it positioned on the mount plate properly, so that I can measure and decide what size belt I need. I have a remote oil filter mount on backorder until the end of the month, and I'll be making an oil cooler setup like Whipper's.

Any tips on proper clutch alignment would be greatly appreciated!

Pictures!

[jpswift1]

OOOOOOO that looks good! As far as aligning the engine goes, I bought to pieces of rectangular steel, about 1" tall by 2" wide and I just centered it and got the clutches lined up and then marked and drilled my holes. I did it while the frame was in my BIGFOOT so I lifted that motor in and out A LOT to make sure it was lined up right. Take a look at what 6X6World member Micmac did with his fully adjustable Hustler engine mount. I don't understand why Hustler never did something like this from the factory. One of these days I'll go back in and make mine adjustable, but for now it works great. You're going to love that Briggs, it'll really make your Hustler a monster! I made my own exhaust with 1.25" tubing and RLV silencers.......here's a video to get you motivated:

[Stonewall]

That is one of my all-time favorite AATV videos, and as a matter of fact, my origional inspiration for this V-twin swap!

I plan to make my engine mount plate like Dan67 did, by modifying the stock mount plate to be adjustable. I saw Micmac's engine mount, but I think it would be too tall. I am trying to make it as low profile as possible to fit under the engine cover/back seat.

I plan to build my exhaust out of 1.25" tubing as well, but I'll be running mine out the back. I bought one of the glasspack tractor mufflers that TSC sells that will look awesome sticking up on the back. And yes, I did get a rain cap for it...

[Dan67]

On my modified engine mount you will need to raise the Briggs 1" for the clutch to properly clear the engine tray. The old opposed 18 shaft is centered higher, thus the need to raise the vanguard up. I used 2 pieces of thick wall 1" square tubing. For the belt, I got mine from Quality Drive Systems (626) 293-5770. They are really good to work with. All you need to know is the center to center distance from the clutches, and what brand you have and the size of the driven. They can do the math and tell you the size you need.

As for the offset, I found using the search feature here on 6x6world.com. This is what I used to set up my Hustler.

[Stonewall]

Thanks! I found and used that picture as well. My Hustler had the Kohler 16HP single, so the tray was different; but I ended up just making a new one from scratch. I'm just about finished, all I have to do is weld the mount bolts solid to the frame.

I'll give Quality Drive a call Monday, sounds like they'll save me alot of trouble!

Pictures in a couple hours, when I call it a day....

[Stonewall]

The Vanguard is officially mounted!! I just went ahead and built a new mounting plate from scratch, complete with slots for about 2" of adjustment. By the looks of things, it's going to fit under the engine cover just fine! I may have to tweak the dipstick handle a little bit, but other than that, there are no clearance issues whatsoever!! WOOHOO!!!

Pictures:

[zoood]

Just curious. You have ample room to do an oil change and filter change? While that engine and frame is in the tub? I dont know if its the norm on the 18hp B&S which I have. But there's a small pipe extending from the base of the engines block out past the mounting plate that the engine sets on. I may reroute my set-up. An oil change while the engine is. Looks to be a messy job.

[highrollinmopars]

Also where did you get those motor mounts? Richard charges like $7.50 per rubber mount and we use 8 of them so that adds up quick. I bought a couple of sets but I know a quick trip in the back of a auto parts store and you could find something to work pretty quick.

[LarryW]

Looks good! Like that color. Thats great you can get the motor in without hacking up the body. My only concern is the thickness of the plate appears thin. The angle iron brace will help the front to back from bending but not much on the side to side bend. When the motor is pulling hard it will put more stress on the pto side and try to pull the motor closer to the trans. Which is downward. If its not to late, maybe add something to the back, going across from the from mounting tab to the other. If there is room the front too. Now maybe the plate is thicker then it looks and will be ok? Just going by what it looks in the picture. I had some mounting plate twinking issues with my 16hp in a gokart once. I wish I know the thickness off the top of my head or I would tell you what wont work, lol.

[Stonewall]

Just curious. You have ample room to do an oil change and filter change? While that engine and frame is in the tub? I dont know if its the norm on the 18hp B&S which I have. But there's a small pipe extending from the base of the engines block out past the mounting plate that the engine sets on. I may reroute my set-up. An oil change while the engine is. Looks to be a messy job.

The 16 HP Kohler that was origionally in this machine had a pipe like yours. I plan to run a hose down to a ball valve, and I can just drain through the plug hole. I'll also be getting the remote oil filter mount kit, so the filter change should be much easier as well.

Also where did you get those motor mounts? Richard charges like $7.50 per rubber mount and we use 8 of them so that adds up quick. I bought a couple of sets but I know a quick trip in the back of a auto parts store and you could find something to work pretty quick.

That's exactly what I did; I think they were like $3.00 each at the Bumper to Bumper.

Looks good! Like that color. Thats great you can get the motor in without hacking up the body. My only concern is the thickness of the plate appears thin. The angle iron brace will help the front to back from bending but not much on the side to side bend. When the motor is pulling hard it will put more stress on the pto side and try to pull the motor closer to the trans. Which is downward. If its not to late, maybe add something to the back, going across from the from mounting tab to the other. If there is room the front too. Now maybe the plate is thicker then it looks and will be ok? Just going by what it looks in the picture. I had some mounting plate twinking issues with my 16hp in a gokart once. I wish I know the thickness off the top of my head or I would tell you what wont work, lol.

I didn't think about lateral stress... The mount plate is pretty thick, but I can always add more steel if the need arises. I'll run it on the bench when I get a belt so I can see if it tweaks it.